Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Showroom condition, a bit modified and well looked after engine.

New brake pads

Abs (Antilock Brakes)

Central Locking

Cd Player

Remote Central Locking

Tinted Windows

Alarm

4 Wheel Steer

Air Conditioning

Airbags

Power Windows

Racing cluth

Razo gear nob

Might throw in a racing seat as well....

done 80000km

Reg until 2005

RWC included

Selling at $26,000

Intested paties pls call me & we could talk about the price

Jimmy

0413120802

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40700-1998-series-2-skyline-melbourne/
Share on other sites

Correct me if I'm wrong but the only mechanical mod is the clutch ? Out of interest what is this clutch that you speak of ? (eg Single, Twin or Triple Plate, Brass Button ?)

single & there are other mods as well so if anyone is interested than ring as i find it no point saying so much while no one is interested in it yet. Interested parties give me a call and No Pm pls.

Tks

To point out the bleeding obvious you might want to list these mods to get people interested. I didn't realise that it was common for people to list standard options of air conditioning, power windows, etc yet ommit to list the mods which would actually make the car anything other than stock. Your call ... I just assumed you were trying to sell a car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...