R33 Multiple Issues - Really Need Help!

[timjh1990]

Hi Guys, in desperate need of help with my R33 Series 1 1994 Skyline Gts-t.

i live in adelaide btw.

ive tried everything to fix these issues, here they are.

Work done:

- 3 inch full exhaust

- front mount

- pod filter

- earthed solenoid

- after market BOV - Plumbed back in

Symptons:

1. High idle at stopped after car is warmed up - 900rpm

when moving between 10km-70ishkm and clutch in or in nuetral car idles around 1500rpm

when moving above 80ishkm and clutched in or in nuetral the car idles around 1500-2000rpm

sometimes the idle will hunt between 1000-2000rpm also in same situations, always varying and intermittent..

2. Fuel economy has basically halved.. used to get to and from work on just over a full talk, now its around half a tank a day!

3. Powerloss at some points - intermittent, dynod it last week drew 178kw at wheels.

but the issue is mainly when driving over 10kms/h.

Things ive done:

- Replace coil packs - spit fires

- Replaced spark plugs

- checked voltage to each coil packs and disconnected packs individually while sitting at idle - ok

- cleaned wiring loom earthing point

- replaced MAF - genuine

- electrically tested idle controller (brown plug 10ohm) (purple plug 20ohm) as specs say, also cleaned idle cont - springs ok

- tried adjusting idle screw all that type of stuff.

- checked if cold start valve letting air through after warm up - no air

- checked for air leaks

- replaced throttle position sensor - genuine, set to .45v

- cleaned out throttle body completely, adjusted stop screw, adjusted accel cable to have a little slack as its meant to, checked for gap in butterfly - no gap.

- had a recommended mechanic look at it - nothing unordinary found

- had the dyno specialist look at it on consult, fuel mixtures seems all ok, pulled ok on the dyno at the time conviniently.. and he couldnt find anything unusual either (car was still standing still tho)

- new o2 sensor - kudos

- no faults found on the nissan consult

- have swapped the BOV with a known good stock BOV and no difference.

theres probably more stuff ive done that i cant think of at this point but if i do remember anything else ill add it to the comments section

replacing and these parts and checked stuff ect, has 50% fixed these problems which has still got me to this average stage of fixing these issues, as well as fixing other issues.

this is killing me price wise + petrol wise.. any suggestions would be hugely appreciated! Thanks - Tim.

[timjh1990]

In addition to my post just so your all info'd up

Turbo works well, no noises, no issues, no oil in piping for intercooler.

Car idles from 900-1100 usually.

Take off from idleing at lights or so, idle does all the symptons while moving, then when i stop at next set of lights idle drops back to 900-1100

Powerloss is particularly in 4th and 5th gear and has no initial pull before it goes into positive boost. I drive it very nicely and its mainly highway driving. But still, i was getting around 400kms a tank, now around 200kms. Because its low end power loss it struggles up slightest of hills now too.

On those rare occasions it decides to work well it runs like a dream. Pulls up the hills beautifully and for that particular drive doesnt suck the petty.

Cheers

[Hadouken]

Cas

[timjh1990]

Thanks for your reply!

Changing the crank angle sensor will fix which of the many problems the car has do you think ?

[Hadouken]

Man youve done a great job checking everything. And usually it would be your afm or aac. But you done them, is the afm clean?

And youve checked everything bar cas. So maybe if you could borrow a mates instead of buying one, and see if that solves your worries.

[timjh1990]

Yeh its been a long and hard process lol

Afm is brand new genuine, clean as a whistle

Non oiled air filter also installed

Sounds like a reasonable idea will do that

Is there a way to test a cas?

Are they adjustable like a tps?

Do you know if series 2 is same as series 1 cas?

I dont know much about them

[timjh1990]

Replaced cas with known good cas this arvo and adjusted.

Same issues still occuring

Least im one step closer to working this out!

These issues are all getting progresively worse as the weeks go by.. Chances are theres 1 problem thats causing all these symptons i reckon.

[blind_elk]

First up, you shouldn't be trying to adjust the throttle stop - it's epoxied for a reason. And you probably shouldn't be "completely cleaning" the throttle - usually causes havoc with idle in GT-Rs, could do the same in GTSTs.

Back to the problem - have you checked the (ECU) engine temp sender? Have you checked that the throttle SWITCH is working correctly - measures 0 ohms at "throttle closed" across pins 1 / 2.

[timjh1990]

Thanks for your reply

Ah the mechanic adjusted the throttle stop and made it worse so i adjusted it bak to what it should be at. Dyno guy also checked this and agreed it was in a ok position.

Ah ok well hopefully that hasnt caused me any further issues i havent polished it type thing, just gave all the carbon build up a good wipe out so to speak.

Engine temp sender? Ive never heard of it actually, will look into it!

Na i havent checked that either, will have to work out a way to check that because the wires are hard to put the multimeter probes on cause they r well hidden. Ill give these suggestions a shot today n see how i go. Thanks!

[kiasu]

tl;dr PCV?

[timjh1990]

Tested the throttle switch - ok

Replaced water temperature sensor - ok

Found a sensor at bottom of radiator to not even be connected.. Reconnected - ok

Power to both sensors is ok

Idle controller does pull the idle down after i go into nuetral or clutch but the second it hits idle it shoots back up to 1500-2000 or so.. And the car is getting worse n worse..

Also the car is finding it harder an harder to start up lately too, dunno if its related or not.

Car also has stock ecu and stock tune.

Same issue is still present with idle..

tl;dr PCv - i dont understand what you mean by this sorry.

[Hadouken]

He's saying that you should check your PCV

[timjh1990]

Ohhh ok, cleaned the valve, seems the pcv (positive crackcase ventilation) valve doesnt want to seat the plunger properly even after being cleaned and it leaves a little gap. Will get my mates one whos car idles well as put it on mine and see how it goes, will get back to yas soon. Thanks

[timjh1990]

Swapped pcv valve with known good one.

No fix problem atill persists

Any other ideas guys??

[Hadouken]

sell car, buy new one

/thread

[timjh1990]

I already have haha

But i needa get this last problem fixed so i dont sell someone a dodgy car. + if problem shows itself hell bad when someone is test driving it they wont buy it

[timjh1990]

I already have haha

But i needa get this last problem fixed so i dont sell someone a dodgy car. + if problem shows itself hell bad when someone is test driving it they wont buy it

[kiasu]

sounds like a vac leak, was told you could throw soapy water on the engine bay and ancillaries to find a leak, might be worth giving a go..

[timjh1990]

Cant hurt man, ill have a crack at that

Thanks!

[Plattsy]

im guessing you havent been back because you threw soapy water on your engine and blew it up.

lulz.

have you checked your earth points on the car? clean em' wire brush em' put em back on, also check out the earth mod for the fuel pump.

i had something like this the other day and it was a fuel problem (i put united 100 in and my car no likey the ethanol)

any who give it a bash, it wont do any harm!