Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1995 180SX ready to drift!

Engine:

RB25DET Series 2 approx 100xxxk's

Brand new Garret GTX3076 .82 rear

Teflon Braided lines everywhere

6 Boost Manifold

Tial 44mm Wastegate with screamer

Greddy Style Plenum

JECS 1000cc Injectors

Q45 Throttle Body

Front Mount Intercooler Core / Z32 AFM

Mishimoto Ally Rad

Massive K&N Pod

Custom 3" Exhaust to 3.5" Tips

Custom Tubs and Tube Front End.

Full custom rewire to switch panel and fuse box under dash.

Custom catch can setup

Car makes 260kw on 15psi, Its safe and can get more power out of it but it has no troubles spinning the 11's in 3rd all day.

Exterior:

Wed Kranze Lxz's in 18x9.5 -14 and 18x11 -29 with brand new 215/40 federal 595's and 235/40 new no name brand

40mm DMAX Front Fenders

50mm Wise Square Rear Overfenders

Viva Garage BN Body Kit (seen better days but still works)

Viva Garage Roof Spoiler

Bonnet Vent

Type X Tailights

Interior:

Apexi Power FC with Hard Controller

Apexi RSM

Cusco 6 Point Roll Cage

2 Foot Hydralic Handbrake

S15 Dash

Red Bride Zeta 2 for drivers and a red bride ergo for passagers

Saber Boost, Oil Temp, Oil Press, Water Temp guages

Battery Relocate Behind Passenger Seat

Driver and Passenger Harnesses

Driveline:

Extreme Drift Clutch/Flywheel Combo

RB25 Gearbox

1 Peice Steel Driveshaft

4.3 ratio 2 way diff

SP garage solid subframe mounts

Suspension:

S14 rear brakes and hubs

z32 Front Brakes

Megan Racing Track Series Coilovers 12kg/10kg

Megan Racing Tie Rods & Ends

Megan Racing Toe Arms

Megan Racing Rear Camber Arms

Megan Racing Tension Rods

Megan Racing Traction Rods

NP Wonder knuckle kit, modded knuckles, longer and strenghted LCA's, BA falcon tie rods and ends, thread adapters with built in spacers. It means big lock setup. Same setup Nigel and the boys run on there cars.

JJR tension rods

Car is NOT registered but has no defects or epa on it so it can be with a blue slip. I was thinking about rego it myself but would probley on last 5 mins on the road before being red stickered. Everything on the car was vought brand new and has only seen 4 track days in total, all the suspension gear hasn't seen more then 600km's on them. I really like this car, the way it looks and goes on the track is incredable but theres no point in me having a track car when i don't have a tow car or trailer plus i'm walking to work because i haven't got a daily which i'm over.

Looking at getting a jzx90/100 or a r32 gtr so i would be keen on swaps even cash your way if its got good parts on it. Even tho saying that i would swap for something jap and rwd with abit of power so don't be afaid to offer. No commo's or ford thanks!!!

Price is $17,000 with everything

Can do it for 15,000 without wheels but i reckon rims make the car.

Contact number is 0424580115, pm me or give me an email at [email protected]

Cheers guys

Stephen

post-74647-0-43751700-1345547374_thumb.jpgpost-74647-0-53812900-1345547427_thumb.jpgpost-74647-0-75925200-1345547404_thumb.jpg

post-74647-0-58783000-1345547533_thumb.jpg

post-74647-0-36951700-1345547872_thumb.jpg

Edited by bams_180
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407518-setup-drift-180sx-low-wide-loud/
Share on other sites

cheers fella's, its a great car to own and drive but can't handle this NSW business of driving the car once in 4 months on a proper track and not a skid pan.

Ain't that the truth! It's beyond a joke now.

GLWS mate, seen it in person a few times ... thing is off the chain!

This car is awesome have seen so many pics of

It recently and spent a lot of time drooling

Over it haha good luck with the sale

Mate if I had the cash I would be knocking on your door right now

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...