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THIS LOW RPM ENGINE STALLING SAGA POSSIBLY SORTED

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huffer Newbie

huffer

Posted
Posted

just replying to cam r u running an aftermarket bov and an air flow meter or a map sensor i know that some nissans run a system that when engine rpm is below 2000rpm the fuel pump circuit switches voltage from 12v back to 9vdue to fuel pumps being too noisey toyota soarers run this system as well have u set base idle and iac learnt where base idle is car looks great

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huffer Newbie

huffer

Posted
Posted

maybe some help with nissans stalling are most of the cars have standard ecu and aftermarket bovs because when bovs fitted the bov stays open @ idle because of the manifold vaccum which in turn bypasses the airflowmeter and run exceessivly lean so when u up the fuel preassure may temp fix the problem to check to see if problem fixed put a 1 way chek valve on the vaccum side of bov e.g xf falcons have a 1 way valve on the carby version its green and black this stops the bov openning @ idle or when pulling up to lights and still when on boost holds the bov shut and when gears changed only lets of excess preassure and not too much boost which in return slows turbo lag. just trying to help a few nissan owners

cheers.

michadoo Collaborator

michadoo

Posted
Posted

I just recently purchased a 1995 Series II R33 and it appears to have a stalling problem aswell.

The spedo first started to just drop out down to 0 and would come back if i gave it a bit of a tap. it still does it now. I had a 3point alarm system installed, and not long after getting it back the car began to stall. it doesnt just stall at a low rpm but usually does around 400rpm. I could be driving and the power will just cut out. not just when i am approaching a stop point.

Im not sure if it could be something that happened when they installed the alarm system or if it could be something relating to the spedo and the wiring in the dash with its gauges, just looking at some of the other posts it makes me think it could be something else.

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Boost_Hound Newbie

Boost_Hound

Posted
Posted

I would like to share my own stalling experience.

I have a r32 gtst auto (full 3inch system is the only mod), my car use to stall when coming to a stop, going around corners, and at times when cruising at around 3 grand bunny hop. Occasionally it would cut out even when i wasn't coming to a stop.

The solution to my problem was really quite simple. Clean the airflow meter.

So i took off the airflow meter and gave the sensor a good clean with electrical contact cleaner (available at Tandy dick smith etc). Now, no more stalling issues.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

I can tell you the most important thing all the nissan people out there, the connector/s to airflow meter is the most crital connection in the entire engine managment and it is the cause of most problems in nissans of any breed. After all the MAF is used in practically all fuel based mathematical calculations within the ecu. If you have any problems with you car running shit go and check the connetor to the MAF. I guaranty it will fix most problems

RiceCooker Newbie

RiceCooker

Posted
Posted

hey guys. i have a r32 GTR and i started to stall the other night =( the revs kept dropping and it wanted to stall it was ok for abit i took it for a spin around the block and it stalled on me i took it back home and left it running for awhile and it kept stalling and stalling and stalling. so i turned it back on and hit the throttle afew times to about 4000rpm then let go i got alot of black smoke coming and it back fired like a mother =(. think this could be just a fuel pump prob? black smoke? back fire? anyway could someone give me more detail instructions as to how to ground this earth fire on the fuel pump? like a picture diagram ^_^ thanx

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted
hey guys. i have a r32 GTR and i started to stall the other night =( the revs kept dropping and it wanted to stall it was ok for abit i took it for a spin around the block and it stalled on me i took it back home and left it running for awhile and it kept stalling and stalling and stalling. so i turned it back on and hit the throttle afew times to about 4000rpm then let go i got alot of black smoke coming and it back fired like a mother =(. think this could be just a fuel pump prob? black smoke? back fire? anyway could someone give me more detail instructions as to how to ground this earth fire on the fuel pump? like a picture diagram ^_^ thanx

Sounds like it is running extremely rich, for what reason I dont know though.

  • 3 weeks later...
inissane Proficient

inissane

Posted
Posted
I think everyone should check out there CRANK ANGLE SENSOR - Coil Packs - & for series one rb25det's , they should check out the signals coming out of the Ignitor pack, that sits above coil pack #6

like anyone is going to listen to you in this community mate u screw people

f#ck off

Ruffels Veteran

Ruffels

Posted
Posted

mmm my 33 does it, infact did it twice today.... only mods i got are pod and bleed valve...... scared the shit out of me coz i was coming to an intersection and i slowed to take the corner, car stalled but i didnt realise for some f**ked up reason lol coz i still had lots of momentum, but i lost power steering while i was half way through the corner and allmost hit a car coming the other way :s

threw it back into second and took foot off the clutch and it roll started and was all good again, but it scared the $hit out of me

-Ruffels

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

Might be a TPS error if the MAF sensor has been checked and believed to be working. Calibrate the TPS so that it is 0% with the throttle shut. Take note you will probly need a Nissan Consult to perform this proceedure. This should kick in the IAC valve when the throttle is shut, ie when coming to a stop. Let us know how you go.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

mine was starting to do that quite a bit.. going from higher speeds to low speed turns, revs would dip, then jump up. Sometimes they wouldn't jump up enoigh and it would stall. Changed AFM over the weekend.. problem fixed. The other one was dirty I'd imagine.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
drifty_jnr Enthusiast

drifty_jnr

Posted
Posted

it is weird how all nissan owners come across this somehow

got the problem in my 180 at the moment - car is in shop and let mech know so hoping he can find it

the usual checklist to go over is as follows:

* check all your vacuum lines for leaks

* check bov isnt leaking

* check AFM

* check o2 sensor

* check TPS

* check IACV

* check fuel pressure (which is wat this re-grounding the fuel pump earth whoo haa is...)

* check ecu pin outs and connections

* check not running excessively lean or rich

that seems to be all the usual suspects and if you check all of them thoroughly you SHOULD fine the problem

  • 1 month later...
LastTemptation Rising Star

LastTemptation

Posted
Posted

could somebody please tell me which wire needs to be cut and re earthed. i cut the black wire that comes from the pump and re earthed it. it didnt do much, but my fuel gauge reads empty. so im guessing thats not the right wire. how can i find out witch wire is meant for grounding??

  • 2 weeks later...
armbrusb Proficient

armbrusb

Posted
Posted

I have an R32. I believe that the ground is the top-right wire when looking at the pump-side clip. It is a white wire which is thicker than the others. I think the others are as in this diagram

Clip.bmp

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