Jump to content
SAU Community

Woo Hoo Dump Pipe Finially Arrived


Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Black33

meggala,  

when I tried to turn my boost down all the way (I turned the bleed valve until it was shut), I went for a drive and the car was terrible, as if if had no power at all, boost was really low (shouldn't it just go to 0.5bar?)

dunno what to do?

It still runs ok (quicker than standard) on 10psi, but my point is that it lost some power when I put the dump on. I might as well put my standard cast dump pipe on for a power increase? :(  

But seriously,  if I get it on a dyno and it shows that it has timing and fuel probs, is there anything that can be done to iron it out before I get an SAFC?

man man man, get your car on the dyno at ice on saturday and get everything checked out!

If u have lost power by putting on your dump then your car must be irish not japanese!

  • Replies 152
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

meggala,

my dads buying me a new safc from nengun and i want a place to dyno it in melbourne ,And it seems like u have seen a few get done do u work a peformance shop?Where do u recomend ?And this 'ice' place where is it ?Cause im from the western suburbs .Also what settings would i need to get her started and drive her?

Originally posted by Black33

turned boost back down to normal (got rid of bleed valve) and it runs smooth as, I've come to the conclusion that:

1. before dump I had it at 11psi and it was pretty smooth b/c it wasn't getting too much air so A/F ratios weren't too bad

2. After putting dump in, it's letting so much more air flow through that combined with boost the stock ecu sh*ts itself and give me massive flat spots.

In other words I will wait before I get my SAFC before I put my bleed valve back in.

I need help with one thing though!!!!!

After installing the dump, I've noticed that I get really big spikes, even with the stock boost set up back together. It spikes around 3psi which I was never getting when I didn't have the dump - Can Anyone Help Explain this?

I though it might be the type of dump I got b/c it has 2 seperate pipes and the wastegate pipe is only 1 1/4 inch diameter. Don't know if it flows enough for the wastegate, meaning that the turbo can't bypass all the pressure when at high revs and it spikes.  

Is it something else.

Help appreciated.

Thanks guys (sorry 4 such a long one!)

The wastegate pipe aint 2 small, look at franks hks dump, its the same size!

Originally posted by meggala

black r33 wind your boost down a bit and see if it help wind it down to 8 psi or so more boost doesn't nessacarliy maen more power then get the s-afc tuned.

franks here in melbourne we have had some very good results with the s-afc tuning 15 20 rwkw iis gain quite often.

exstatic doesn't need to jsut ify the gain cause most of us were there when he got the gains and saw them with our own eyes

meggala

franks?Where need a place asap!Also meggala do u no u have never answerd any of my questions to u ?

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Arrgh if only i knew exactly what and where to get for my exhaust

I'm after a Front pipe + Dump pipe

3 of my local exhaust places know jack squat and i've just emailed UAS hoping for a half-decent reply but know it will cost the earth through them.

Benm, i just ordered a dump from JMS (japanese motorsport) in Adelaide and am waiting for it to arrive. They have stainless dump and front pipes for a reasonable price. I'll post some pics when it arrives and can let you know what the quality is like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...