Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol, was under my car yesterday inspecting clutch fork and noticed I had some pretty fat front pipes already installed. Measured them up to be 2.5 inch primaries into 3 inch secondary. Can't find a brand name on them but the welds look immaculate and it seems quite sturdy. Win! Its funny how sometimes you can own a car for a while and not realize what's done to it.

Lol, was under my car yesterday inspecting clutch fork and noticed I had some pretty fat front pipes already installed. Measured them up to be 2.5 inch primaries into 3 inch secondary. Can't find a brand name on them but the welds look immaculate and it seems quite sturdy. Win! Its funny how sometimes you can own a car for a while and not realize what's done to it.

I'd still be getting bigger pipes mate, what dumps do you run?

I'd be getting 3 inch dumps, the biggest f@ck off front pipes you can find. High flow cat into 3 1/2...

The closer you are to the turbos the larger the diameter of the piping required, as we all know hot air expands ;)

Edited by GTR_JOEY

Conflicting advice everywhere, people say 3inch is good for up to 400kw. Others say 300kw, I love the Internet. I may just sell of my entire system and get a 3.5 inch system made up just to be safe.

With any question there's going to be conflicting info from those that have heard stuff off mates or just take a guess.

I've done it on my own 32. Over 400rwkw through those size front pipes and an off the shelf xforce cat back which I can tell you now is less than 3.5".

Save your money and spend it somewhere else on the car, those front pipes you're talking about will do the job. Plus if they're Nismo the quality will be awesome like all Nismo parts.

Personally I'd be buying those front pipes wherever youve seen them and then a set of R34GTR (or HKS which come up from time to time) dump pipes with the money saved from not going custom/overkill.

^^this man knows,

If stevo reckons that those pipes are good for the power your making then that's good enough for me. Unlike alot of people his advice comes from experience and knowledge.

The nismo pipes will be top quality and you know they are going to bolt in and fit 100% of the time!

Like I said before you will need the bigger dump pipes as well with the high flow cat

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...