Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The former is a halogen bulb intended to look like an HID.

The latter is an HID bulb.My knowledge of the V35 is hazy at best so I'm not sure if the OEM headlights are HID but if they are, then you'll need to have retained the HID ballast and retaining clip from the compliance conversion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515148
Share on other sites

I generally stick to the terms 'HID' and 'halogen'. Xenon is a bit ambigious as HIDs are filled with Xenon gas, but you can get halogens with traces of Xenon gas also.

So the term Xenon doesn't really define the type of lamp.

As Sean said, factory low beam are HID. If the car was complied proplery, they would have been removed and had halogens fitted. However there are plenty of V35s getting around still with their factory HIDs in tact, either re-fitted after compliance, or complied by a workshop that didn't know they need to be removed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515279
Share on other sites

I'm not really sure what it has at the moment as I'm not the first owner.. The left is working but the right has blown. Best bet would probably be to take the right one out and find out what it is hey? It has been checked for defects and what not when i brought it from Melbourne and they said nothing about them so maybe they are halogens?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515777
Share on other sites

I generally stick to the terms 'HID' and 'halogen'. Xenon is a bit ambigious as HIDs are filled with Xenon gas, but you can get halogens with traces of Xenon gas also.

So the term Xenon doesn't really define the type of lamp.

As Sean said, factory low beam are HID. If the car was complied proplery, they would have been removed and had halogens fitted. However there are plenty of V35s getting around still with their factory HIDs in tact, either re-fitted after compliance, or complied by a workshop that didn't know they need to be removed.

I should hate stated xenon halogen aha apologies.

I'm not really sure what it has at the moment as I'm not the first owner.. The left is working but the right has blown. Best bet would probably be to take the right one out and find out what it is hey? It has been checked for defects and what not when i brought it from Melbourne and they said nothing about them so maybe they are halogens?

Go up to your headlight cover, and look at the bottom you will see little engravings it should say D2R. If you aren't sure, remove your front bumper and look for a ballast (a box with wires connected to it leading to the headlights) and read what is written on that. If you have a ballast, you have HID's and i believe if there is no ballast you have Xenon Halogens. It's a little confusing. My right headlight has blown too, i am planning on buying aftermarket lights but i need to take my bumper off and look for the ballast to see what will work with my car.

Goodluck!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515784
Share on other sites

Uneducated response here, but don't HIDs take a half second or so to come on, while halogen would be instant on?

My low beams have a delay, and for that reason alone I believe they are HIDs. The high beams, which also emit a different colour light, come on instantly and I believe they are halogen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515940
Share on other sites

HIDs do have a smal delay, but the most noticeable effect is the don't come on at full brightness when cold, they take about 15 seconds or so to reach full brightness, and they tend to be a bit 'blueish' as they warm up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6515972
Share on other sites

Just checked - my low beams are a blueish colour & highs are yellow. Lows have a very slight delay turning on from cold, and also take a few seconds to get to full brightness - as per sonicii but not 15 seconds, maybe 3-4. Highs come on instantly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6516200
Share on other sites

Out of curiosity, since I haven't converted my lights back to their original HIDs, I have noticed that my high beams don't seem to have as much reach as they probably should. I keep the AFS switched off to avoid the AFS alarm from the lamps not being able to swing at all since the conversion and to obviously avoid any mechanical damage as a result. Do our headlamp assemblies start in the lowered position perhaps and that's why my high beams aren't really pointing high up like they should?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6516319
Share on other sites

Hey guys just a few quick questions - I have removed my headlights and I have halogens, but there are little grey units with yellowish stickers bolted onto the bottom of the headlights with wires coming out of them (cut wires), is this the factory hid unit? If so how would I go about setting it up? Is it difficult? Are there any diy's?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6516587
Share on other sites

Just checked - my low beams are a blueish colour & highs are yellow. Lows have a very slight delay turning on from cold, and also take a few seconds to get to full brightness - as per sonicii but not 15 seconds, maybe 3-4. Highs come on instantly.

So you have HID low beams and the top lights are Halogen :)

Hey guys just a few quick questions - I have removed my headlights and I have halogens, but there are little grey units with yellowish stickers bolted onto the bottom of the headlights with wires coming out of them (cut wires), is this the factory hid unit? If so how would I go about setting it up? Is it difficult? Are there any diy's?

Does it look a little something like this? If the wires are cut and not connected to anything, someone has been lazy and left the HID ballast in there. It might not be in use, but if you get the appropriate bulbs to suit HID bulbs and the wiring you need you can try hook it up but do a bit of research first. G35driver.com is a great forum with loads of info on pretty much anything and everything to do with these cars, give it a shot.

n3b4b8.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6516735
Share on other sites

Yup looks like the one in the pic.

So all I need is the wiring and globes?

Would these fit?

http://www.ebay.com....=item27c0ff9d43

Thanks

Correct, and obviosly you have to make sure the other end of the ballast is connected to something lol.

You have to be careful with D2R and D2S they use different bulbs.

Edited by Seano350GT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6516996
Share on other sites

are you sure they are different? All the ones I've found on ebay say d2r d2s and even d2c!!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-350Z-Murano-Subaru-WRX-STI-D2S-D2R-Factory-Xenon-HID-Replacement-Ballast-/170720897409?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bfc22981

Even that says d2r d2s ^

I'm so confuse :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408386-xenon-lights/#findComment-6517001
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...