Jump to content
SAU Community

GTSt top speed.

MSPEC
 Share

Recommended Posts

Pandaemonaeon Enthusiast

Pandaemonaeon

Posted
Posted

On an R33 in 5th gear divide the revs by 26. Thats a pretty close calculation. So 7000rpm in 5th gear is 269.23km/h. My car cuts out at about 5250 which is 201.9km/h. I don't understand why though as this is more than the factory 180km/h and when it hits it it's a rev limiter. Doesn't slow down at all and starts backfiring all over the place.

GunMetalR33 Mentor

GunMetalR33

Posted
Posted

I have been well over 200 but the problem is, I dont think the speedo is too accurate at those kinds of speeds. From what I have seen 250 can be done(I have 19's though) and I think you might be able to push 265-270 maybe? Car floats a bit at those speeds and it is something I wont be doing again, way too un-safe!

GunMetalR33 Mentor

GunMetalR33

Posted
Posted
On an R33 in 5th gear divide the revs by 26. Thats a pretty close calculation. So 7000rpm in 5th gear is 269.23km/h. My car cuts out at about 5250 which is 201.9km/h. I don't understand why though as this is more than the factory 180km/h and when it hits it it's a rev limiter. Doesn't slow down at all and starts backfiring all over the place.

The speedo is not right at those speeds I think.

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Just so people don't lose sight of reality. (Not saying any of you are, just saying just in case.)

I've seen the results of a Monaro that was doing 250 on a freeway and lost it due to what at 110 km/h would be a small undulation but at 250 must have been a lot worse.

Car came to rest 250 metres down the road and 100 metres or so off to the left, set itself on fire and pretty much disintegrated. The guy died in the fire but probably wouldn't have made it anyway cos he was fairly mangled.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
Below is the result of hitting a rock at speed when a car pulled out infront of us(not me driving). We were lucky though all that happened was I got a broken hand. Pic quality pretty bad as it was taken on a phone. Oh and that's the fuel tank on the back seat.

OUCH, Thats nasty!!!

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...