Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pirelli p6000s, excellent in the wet. especially braking in the wet in comparison to other sports tyres (read it in motor mags tyre test last year or sumthing).. ive had a set on each of my two cars so far and they have lasted well also..

..You need to ask yourself so so so many questions but generally speaking...

How much do I want to spend?

How many K's do want to get out the tyres?

Do I want a flat out performance tyre?

Do I want it soley for it's Wet weather conditions or dry conditions, or both?

I just went down this path last week, I spent a good week or two aking some calls, speaking to guys on the forum etc etc..

I wanted a performance tyre for my GTR that was realisticlly priced "unlike Michelin Xpilot 2", had some of the BEST grip in both wet and dry, and could hold my power to the ground. In the end it came down to 3 tyres:

Falken ST215 "Semi Comps" Best grip in dry, useless in wet. But as I was told with Semi Comps, you need to warm the up properly before you can take real advantage on the street.

Falken ST115 - Had these before on a WRX, and I felt they were too hard a compund regardless of the Falken statement of being undeatable in the Wet, and they didn't grip under hard concerning.

Bridgstone S03 - Did not hear 1 bad comment about these from anyone I spoke to. And now I know why. I chose these as I ended up paying nearly the price as the ST115 falkens. $310, retail I got quotes up to $420 per tyre in a 17 255 40. So far I've done about 400k's in the dry just wearing them in, no wet days so far. And they feel better than my old Michelin Xpilots & they were the best tyre I have every used... hang second best, on our other car I have Continental Contact Sport 2, but I only get about 8000km's out of these on a rear wheel drive car.

Well I can definitely NOT recommend Sumitomo.

3%Silicon 97% concrete.

Done 25,000kms on them and they still look new.

Were worse than the stock tyres that came with the REX.

They "flop" around on the rims and squeal like stuck cops.

It takes an amazing tyre (not in a good way) to make a REX feel unsettled in the wet.

I'm watching this thread with interest...looks like S03's so far

Cheers

..You need to ask yourself so so so many questions but generally speaking...

$310, retail I got quotes up to $420 per tyre in a 17 255 40. So far I've done about 400k's in the dry just wearing them in, no wet days so far.

Where did you find the bridgestones for this price?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...