Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Light Coming On After Heaters Have Been On

gogglez-10

By gogglez-10,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Springsteen Contributor

Springsteen

Posted
Posted

Not convinced the heater is causing your problem, just a likely coincidence. If you can give it a boot on the throttle and it comes good and you have about 100xxx km on the clock then guess what....my first guess is coils. If youre not convinced then put the ecu into diagnostic mode and count the flashes, or pay for a consult to say you have an intermittent ignition problem and be none the wiser.

loymclure Proficient

loymclure

Posted
Posted

if you wanna test it.... supa cheap will sell you a tube of heat silicone for like 20 bucks, pull them out and cover each coil pack in it. mine use to heat up and then arc out against the block. if you have the cash buy new ones i guess.

loymclure Proficient

loymclure

Posted
Posted

hey wolverine, no disrespect bro but

CRC Urethane Seal Coat Temperature Resistance Should not exceed 100°C

most heat resistant silicones have a HR of around 300°C

Sure a spray might be neater but i dont think itll have half the insulating properties as a decent heat resistant silicone or heat resistant gasket sealer.

the bonus is you wont see it as its under the coil pack cover.

cheers

Springsteen Contributor

Springsteen

Posted
Posted

Yeah did think about that could the afm being shit cause this the cars at 94000 but when i turn the car off and start it again the light goes off and drives fine

i think it was shit fuel haven't had it since i have run 2 full tanks of premium through it but coils are on the list when i do my 100,000 service

AFM? Is more likely to cause poor running and stalling. Can of AFM cleaner from local auto parts shop about 20 bucks, take off AFM and squirt clean.

The light going off when you switch off and back on is normal.

Ttry giving it a big kick in the guts when its missing (in gear up to 5000 rpm or so). Might need 2 or 3 kicks but usually will make it run on 6 again.

Shit fuel? Only ever run 98. My favourite is Vortex from the yellow and red company with the scallop for a logo.

Coils and plugs? Well it's up to you on how deep your pockets are when you do timing belt, water pump, seals / gaskets, fluids at 100xxx km

Looking like an expensive service, add about 750 bucks to your parts budget.

Dont tell me, the problem has gone away cos you switched your heater off??

Springsteen Contributor

Springsteen

Posted
Posted

Ran Super Sparks on a RSV, no dramas.

Other folks will say use the Yellow Jackets. I would say everyone has a preference.

Think there are some new supersparks for sale on here, just make a search in the for sale section.

Same for plugs, you can get a set for cheaper if you want to pull the top off every time you oil change.

Best of luck getting the parts and solving that miss.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...