Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

Im currently looking for a clean R34 GTR V-SPEC.

Must meet the following criteria:

- Bayside Blue

- Low km's (if possible)

- Non Accident vehicle

- Auction grade papers (if possible)

- Log books (if possible)

- Stock body (side skirts and rear pods will be the ONLY exception)

- Clean Xenon headlights (if possible)

Would prefer something slightly modified. 

Anything around the 280-310 kw margin would be perfect!

Example of basic mods:

- Upgraded Turbo's 

- Cam Gears

- ECU

- Turbo back exhaust

- Clutch

- Coilovers

I am located in Melbourne, willing to travel intersate for the perfect car.

I'm a very picky with my cars, I know what I'm looking at and im aware what the market price is for a R34 GTR V-SPEC.

No carsales/eBay/importers links please.

The car must be in Australia and it must inspected in full detail first.

Budget: $40000 - $50000

PS: I just took delivery of a Toyota GT86 so my 2001 Nissan 200sx, Spec S, 6SPD, low km's, log books, lightning yellow in color and Trust turbo back exhust will need to go. 

Willing to do a swap plus cash arrangement.

Please send me a PM of quick description of your car, asking price and if it sounds interesting we can follow up with a phone call.

I am not here to waist anyone's time and I hope you don't waist mine. 

Thank you

Tony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409087-wtb-r34-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites

depending on how much of the fruit you want determines the price, and you wont buy cheaper. Nismo front bar is tasteful and has the genuine stamp and i can provide the standard bar. Should be able to find the genuine Dash, to show kms less than 90000 total. Supply a long motor, turn key and drive away!!! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/408932-bayside-blue-r34-gtr-vspec-byo-short-motor-head-and-injectors/

depending on how much of the fruit you want determines the price, and you wont buy cheaper. Nismo front bar is tasteful and has the genuine stamp and i can provide the standard bar. Should be able to find the genuine Dash, to show kms less than 90000 total. Supply a long motor, turn key and drive away!!! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/408932-bayside-blue-r34-gtr-vspec-byo-short-motor-head-and-injectors/

Hello Clayton,

Thank you for your response.

I can see that you have put a lot of time and $$$ into it, however your GTR isn't for me unfortunately.

Cheers

Tony

I can recall them on carsales while back....

Both of them are sold!

That 2000 V-Spec was originally advisertised for $60,000 ono for a very long time, as soon as he dropped it to $49,990 ono it got sold within 1 week.

with all your requests of a car you are absolutely dreaming to be "sticking within your budget"

anyone with a car with your criteria will want close to 60g and if they dont then something wont match what you want

dreamers

with all your requests of a car you are absolutely dreaming to be "sticking within your budget"

anyone with a car with your criteria will want close to 60g and if they dont then something wont match what you want

dreamers

Please keep in consideration I recently just purchased a brand new car so I MUST stick to this budget…

Adding another 10K to my budget is massive!

And no I won’t borrow money from the bank for a car… That’s just plain stupid IMO.

Happy to wait for the right one to pop up…. The GT86 is keeping me happy for the time being.

Edited by GZILAH

with all your requests of a car you are absolutely dreaming to be "sticking within your budget"

anyone with a car with your criteria will want close to 60g and if they dont then something wont match what you want

dreamers

  • 1 month later...

i have a 99 vspec, with all genuine nismo suspension, links bushes arms etc, genuine nismo clutch, exhaust, cooler fully forged bottom end nismo gt block with hks gtrs'440awkw low kays and id have to say you wouldnt get mine any cheaper than 65k you may get a bog stock vspec for 50k mate, you may have to adjust your budget.

i have a 99 vspec, with all genuine nismo suspension, links bushes arms etc, genuine nismo clutch, exhaust, cooler fully forged bottom end nismo gt block with hks gtrs'440awkw low kays and id have to say you wouldnt get mine any cheaper than 65k you may get a bog stock vspec for 50k mate, you may have to adjust your budget.

gee and thats even cheap price

this is bullshit - if your keen to buy you go looking, not expect sellers to come to you.

ha thats gold say it how it is.. nice 1 im sick of ppl expecting to get things cheap, good stuff costs money. you can get a boonga for that money.. nice work i was thinking it you said it. he he he he he........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...