Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your local tyre joints should be able to fit and balance for 15-20 a tyre if you supply the tyres. You should find Kumho cheaper than that if you shop around, We do Jap Nitto's for that kinda money, and Achilles fair bit cheaper, We dont sell the Kumho so cant help on those but they should be a fair bit cheaper than 366 a tyre.

245 35 and 275 30 20 is ideal.

(EDIT: can help get you the Kumho a fair bit cheaper if you like, just pm me.)

Pm'd you mate.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

that's a decent price you got on those.

Just to answer your question, its fine to be running the 245/35s on your fronts and the 275/30Rs. I ran that particular profile setup in the 19s, threw off the speedo by about 5km/h (100 on speedo, actually doing 95)

See i realllllllllly don't want my speedo to be out, i will avoid that at all costs. I have 3 points left :/

If all else fails paget discount Tyre and battery should be able to fit and balance the three. Not sure about other places fitting and balancing tyres that didn't come from them, doesn't hurt to ask

Ali should sort you out anyway

See i realllllllllly don't want my speedo to be out, i will avoid that at all costs. I have 3 points left :/

haha true, I just saw what 100 was on my satnav and matched it with needle position on speedo.

If in doubt I just had my satnav on and switched back and forth if i needed to change songs lol

haha true, I just saw what 100 was on my satnav and matched it with needle position on speedo.

If in doubt I just had my satnav on and switched back and forth if i needed to change songs lol

So i was just speaking to a mate in the states that has the same lowering springs, same size rims, same car, and 245/35/20 F 275/30/20 R. He says that the speedo shouldn't be off because when you do the calculations the fronts are within a cm from the back diameter. He didn't explain it very clearly but he has never had any problems with speeding or anything because of it, but in saying that he hasn't checked if his speedo is off. I don't have a GPS and i would love to get 245/30/20 from somewhere hopefully this guy Ali K can help me out :)

Remember to compare stock wheel size against the ones you want or have..the speedo is calibrated for stock wheel and tyre sizes.

And its the rear sizes that matter as this is where the speedo gets its reading from on the gear box, unless Im old and things have changed.

Thanks A LOT for this, it says my speedo will be off by 2.11km p/h. Is it possible to get it "balanced" or something so that my speedo is corrected but i can still run those tyres?

Thanks A LOT for this, it says my speedo will be off by 2.11km p/h. Is it possible to get it "balanced" or something so that my speedo is corrected but i can still run those tyres?

The word you are looking for would be "calibrated", you would need to get the speedo re-calibrated.

Ah calibrated then. Who can do this?

If the V35 is anything like the M35 (& a lot of other cars btw), then the speedo is intentionally made to read non linear. It might be an attempt to stop people speeding, or maybe to give owners an unrealistic idea of how fast their car is. Below is a graph I did a while ago on tyres with rolling diameter the same as factory.

post-76144-0-53513700-1347782727_thumb.jpg

It raises some question as to how a speedo would be calibrated to fix the non linearity - it looks like a compromise might be required.

Just get a satnav or something and see how far your out with the new tyres. You'd be surprised how quick you learn what your actual speed is compared to your speedo

My power fc hand controller is actually pretty close to actual road speed so i just go off that

And are you sure you can't get a width/profile tyre that matches or is slightly under your rolling circumference of stock tyres? Surely if you go 10mm under or something you can find a good combo

Just get a satnav or something and see how far your out with the new tyres. You'd be surprised how quick you learn what your actual speed is compared to your speedo

My power fc hand controller is actually pretty close to actual road speed so i just go off that

And are you sure you can't get a width/profile tyre that matches or is slightly under your rolling circumference of stock tyres? Surely if you go 10mm under or something you can find a good combo

I do plan on upgrading my sound in about 2 months so until then i'll just have to drive a couple of KM's under the limit which is okay. ATM my stock tyres are 225/40/18 245/40/18. If i go for say, 245/40/20 the speedo actually goes off by a lot more nearly 4km i think it was. 245/30/20 & 275/30/20 is probably the closest combo i can find that LOOKS great on the car and fills the guards really well and only goes over the limit by 1.8km p/h.

255/30R20's should work well on the rear, only .73km/h difference at 60km/h

Remember you only need to look at the rear wheels for your speedo difference.

However, if your car has traction control, then you may have issues if the rolling circumference is different.

I'm not sure on the deal with this is

Did you hear back from Ali (Taleb Tyres)? He is pretty good at working all this out, if you ask him what the best match would be he should be able to sort it out. I did next to no thinking when I got both sets of wheels/tyres off them, Ali Picked good offsets (there not aggressive but I'm not into mexican looking wheels anyway) and a good matched set of tyres. This is why I reccomend them to people, because they are good at what they do and really nice to deal with

255/30R20's should work well on the rear, only .73km/h difference at 60km/h

Remember you only need to look at the rear wheels for your speedo difference.

However, if your car has traction control, then you may have issues if the rolling circumference is different.

I'm not sure on the deal with this is

Did you hear back from Ali (Taleb Tyres)? He is pretty good at working all this out, if you ask him what the best match would be he should be able to sort it out. I did next to no thinking when I got both sets of wheels/tyres off them, Ali Picked good offsets (there not aggressive but I'm not into mexican looking wheels anyway) and a good matched set of tyres. This is why I reccomend them to people, because they are good at what they do and really nice to deal with

I think i'm going with 275/30/20 on the back, it says when i'm doing 60 i'm actually going 61.94 so i'm okay with that.

I know guys that have 275's on the back and have no issues with VDC at all so that's good for me.

Yeah been sending messages to eachother all morning very helpful so far and actually told me that my car's manufactured with 225/45/18 245/45/18 instead of 225/40/18 245/40/18 they just cheaped out on compliance haha. He's sorting out prices now with some Kumho KU31'S i'm just unsure about if i should go with 225/35/20 or 245/35/20 at the front.

Personally I'd go slightly under size, the KU31 grips well so shouldnt be a problem. The slight stretch looks good without being rediculous

My old ones were about 10-20mm undersize for the rim, think they were 10. Looked pretty good:

DSC02278.jpg

Thats just me but. Whatever your back tyres are doing (stretch or bulge) I would keep it the same up front

Update:

Purchasing a set of Achiles ATR Sports off Ali K @ Taleb Tyres

225/35/20

255/35/20

Going for a stretched look on a 20x8.5 and 20x10 rim.

He's helped me out loads on information about fitment and especially price!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...