Jump to content
SAU Community

So I Un-Turbo'd My R32 Gtst And Its Running Rich

IM-32-FK

By IM-32-FK,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

IM-32-FK Mentor

IM-32-FK

Posted
Posted

I didnt do it myself but the guy who i bought it off. Everything seems fine with the engine, but the car is running way too rich...so much smoke and smell.The engine is running low compression pistons since its was originally a rb20det. What can i do? put non turbo injectors and/or change the fuel pump?

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Injectors etc probably arent going to help, more likely an ECU will...... But i must ask WHY did he remove the turbo? The RB20DET - T would be terrible to drive? (No offense)

IM-32-FK Mentor

IM-32-FK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Injectors etc probably arent going to help, more likely an ECU will...... But i must ask WHY did he remove the turbo? The RB20DET - T would be terrible to drive? (No offense)

crap power low end but it picks up like a skyline should after like 5500rpm. BTW i think there is already an ecu..u cant just take the turbo off and expect your car to run...it wont!

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

crap power low end but it picks up like a skyline should after like 5500rpm. BTW i think there is already an ecu..u cant just take the turbo off and expect your car to run...it wont!

Oh it'll run just fine.

Might be a lil' rich though.

IM-32-FK Mentor

IM-32-FK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

an NA that piks up after 5500. Far out. your on p's by the sound of it?

the only money id spend on that is to get a rb25de and bolt in.

you think there is an ECU? is this car on bricks?

go fist yourself, i want to drive a non turbo r32, f**k me right? i dont care ive been looking for a factory gts for a while now and most of them are either auto or are really expensive. They are rare...more and more r32's are off the street nowadays. The car drives fine, it just runs rich.

IM-32-FK Mentor

IM-32-FK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You said its got a non turbo computer? What colour are the injectors? pink or red?

Also a rooted o2 sensor will cause this.

injectors are greyish black

here's a picture of the ecu...it looks aftermarket : http://imgur.com/2UWCH

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

injectors are greyish black

here's a picture of the ecu...it looks aftermarket : http://imgur.com/2UWCH

Looks like the NISTUNE logo and Envy Dyno.......

IM-32-FK Mentor

IM-32-FK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Looks like the NISTUNE logo and Envy Dyno.......

ye i told you it had an different computer

id also like to mention im still using the factory turbo manifold...its been modified to go straight to the dump pipe. Maybe its a bit restrictive? getting different headers will be one of the first mods id do.

sydking Veteran

sydking

Posted
Posted (edited)

go fist yourself, i want to drive a non turbo r32, f**k me right? i dont care ive been looking for a factory gts for a while now and most of them are either auto or are really expensive. They are rare...more and more r32's are off the street nowadays. The car drives fine, it just runs rich.

haha, hit a sore point did i mate?

Sorry, your car is not rare. But... What you could do.Is grab a NA rb25de for Say $500, Bolt it in. Not only will you have a stock DE motor, But will be able to enjoy the extra .5 Lt. Win win is it not?

Otherwise you could spend money on what you currently have....And still be drving around in a low comp 2L NA

Edited by sydking
IM-32-FK Mentor

IM-32-FK

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

haha, hit a sore point did i mate?

Sorry, your car is not rare. But... What you could do.Is grab a NA rb25de for Say $500, Bolt it in. Not only will you have a stock DE motor, But will be able to enjoy the extra .5 Lt. Win win is it not?

Otherwise you could spend money on what you currently have....And still be drving around in a low comp 2L NA

and pay thousands to get it engineered? no thanks bro

Edited by IM-32-FK
drunkn snail Community Regular

drunkn snail

Posted
Posted

Definetly buy a rb25de motor, cheap as compared to fixing yours to run properly as will only take a day to fit of you have some knowledge. Also will go way quicker than what's in there now

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

Hmmm, you should watch what you are talking about. As for his suggestion of putting a proper non turbo motor in there is the smartest decision you will ever make.

As for why your car is running shit? Its because the turbo is missing doofus. And want to know another thing? Your non turbo'd car is still illegal for you to drive on your p's because it was registered as a turbo.

So instead of spitting in people's faces like a spoilt brat, just take what he says and reply in a manner as follows, no thank you, I would rather try something else

drunkn snail Community Regular

drunkn snail

Posted
Posted

and pay thousands to get it engineered? no thanks bro

lol u driving a non turbo 4 wheel drive r33 ROFL what a joke why bother having 4 wheel drive when your car dont even have power lolololololol

Doesn't need to be engineered as its a factory motor designed for that chassis. Also awd helps heaps in wet, I know my rwd r33 has stepped a few times when you don't want it to.

Also, what's with the attitude, why bother asking for help of your not going to take it positively

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • TheBushKangaroo
      Hello fellow enthusiasts

      By TheBushKangaroo · Posted

      Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • MBS206
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...