Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Boost Controller Install

bigkevracer

By bigkevracer,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Hi all.

I'm looking at hooking my EVC up tomorrow and I can't for the life of me find an M35 tutorial which includes the hose plumbing. All focus on the wiring, so I've got that covered.

But what I'm looking for, being a turbo noob, is where I need to plumb the stepper motor in. I know what I need to plumb it into based on the EVC install instructions, but not where those plumbing points are.

Any suggestions/pointers?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409903-m35-boost-controller-install/
Share on other sites
andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

You are looking for the hose that runs across the front of the motor and comes from the intake pipe. If you followthis hose across from the drivers side to the passenger side you will find it comes to a T intersection. At this point you need to make the connections. The section running further towards the passenger side and downwards to the bottom of the motor is the hose running to the actuator on the turbo. You need to remove the T piece and plum your Boost controller in to the hoses at this point. If you follow the T section towards the firewall (this is the hose that you will not use anymore). You will see it goes to the Boost actuator. You need to LooP this actuator off.

The 3 rd nippleon the actuator goes to the intake and this should be blocked off.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Andy

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted (edited)

Andy's words describe it perfectly, but here's a pic (I've posted elsewhere) which could help those following on.

Let us know how it goes Ryan.

post-76144-0-90917900-1348317107_thumb.jpg

Edited by Commsman
bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers Leon.

I was playing with the hoses today and saw the exact T piece, but I wasn't sure which hose went where (although you could make assumptions...)

Andy's backed those up, so should be all good.

Wiring looks like the easy part! (famous last words...)

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I didn't get to this today, but when I was playing around I was wondering, if I put the solenoid under the new drivers side battery cover, are the air lines going to be too long?

HKS are pretty insistent in the book on making sure the hoses are as short as possible, and I noticed doing a search that Andy, you put yours in the passenger side. I could fit it there, but it's a bit of a hassle, and I'd prefer to fit it in the drivers side where there is more room and I can put the FPR and boost controller side by side.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

So I didn't get to this today, but when I was playing around I was wondering, if I put the solenoid under the new drivers side battery cover, are the air lines going to be too long?

I dunno, boost air moves pretty fast in those small hoses, but maybe..?

HKS are pretty insistent in the book on making sure the hoses are as short as possible, and I noticed doing a search that Andy, you put yours in the passenger side. I could fit it there, but it's a bit of a hassle, and I'd prefer to fit it in the drivers side where there is more room and I can put the FPR and boost controller side by side.

I say give it a go where it fits for you & see if it works. Chances are it'll be fine.

Alternatively, can you either a) use the factory solenoid instead of the supplied one (cut off wires & use existing plug to hook into you new controller), or b) totally remove the factory one & mount your new one on the same bracket?

And in case you're wondering, no, you won't throw a CEL or anything else. I cut mine off over a year ago & hooked the EBC up to the factory solenoid. :thumbsup:

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

The obvious advantage with using the OEM solenoid is that no one but you will know it is controlled by the EVC.

I know what I'll be doing when I get off my arse & fit one.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Dale, you've actually mounted your screen where I was thinking of putting it. Looks good.

I've got an EVC6, so it has a small stepper motor, which is fairly big compared to what you've got there (which could almost pass as stock).

Since I already have the motor and everything I won't be using the OEM solenoid.

I'll mount it where I'd prefer to mount it for now and just run the hoses and short as I can, and then see what happens. IF I have to move it, so be it.

Cheers guys!

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

I put mine in the same place as the stock one its ok

Looks nice Dale.

Did you block up the small pipe on the intake when you removed the hose? If not, there will be a small amount of unmetered air getting in. I don't think it will change much though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...