Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

since last night I bad rattling noise as emerged from engine bay...Its definiately not the dash.

I find I can make the sound worse if, I put into gear (i.e. first gear) and release the clutch to the point of friction where it lets go, without putting pressure on the accelerator pedal..

ANy ideas? This is worrying me....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41004-help-major-rattling-noise-on-s15/
Share on other sites

Na it will be ten VVT my friend. My S14a does it and nearly every S14 i know and some S15s that have a few more K's(not Many though) do it. Common problem. Cost around 1500 to fix, not really worth doing as it doesnt really cause any problem. If the car is still under warrenty get it fixed, he he.

its hard to varify what the noise is exactly without hearing the noise coz some noises sound quite similar, but u say u can make it worse when selecting a gear but the noise goes away when u engage the clutch abit in gear? Possibly an internal gearbox drama, mainshaft bearing/s, counter shaft bearing/s something like that, but again unless i know whats actually happening and when, with what noises etc its hard to tell u, ur best bet is to talk to someone in person(ie a mechanic or gearbox place) and see what they say. U could try talking to boosteds15 of www.boostcruising.com he has an s15 which has had afew gearboxes replaced. maybe u have the same drama

my s15 has done 28000kms. and it doesnt happen when i rev the car or while normal driving.

i agree sweetr33 sounds a gearbox problem....ICE in melb says its possibly the thrust bearing. Pain the in arse to change cos u gotta take out the whole gearbox....

I can make the noise appear by putting into 1st gear, then slowly disengage the clutch to the point of friction where I nearly stall. By the way this is when NOT pressing the throttle.

could it also be the engine/gearbox mount?

I know i might be repeating the people above but it really sounds like a thrust bearing issue had a similar problem on an import gemini, turned out the spring that holds the bearing had come off and lodged itself between the fork and bearing, thus always making it touch the pressure plate.

Mind you my problem ended with a screech squeel yelp and than bang as the pressure plate disintigrated the thrust bearing, in amongst other things.

Pull of the g/box and check it and its not that much of a bitch if you gotta pit/hoist.

there is 6 bolts holding the box on the bellhousing 4 holding the tail shaft 4 bolts mounting the box disconect the slave cyilinder and yank out the shifter.

Ohhhh and don't forget to drain the oil.

ooo and trhe starter motor 2 bolts holding that one

Hope it helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...