Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...

just did this too i found it easier with removing guard liner you get so much room to work with too.

Takes >5 min to get it thru without inner guard , if you have tape, silicone spray, and stiff wire

But either way works

haha all good boys found it the gommet. the key point is to pull back the guard lining ! u cant see it other wise ! once i did that i run the cable in 15 mins !

and the last system i built i got a 145db with 2 12s running off 2.5k rms on music so i have a little experience with car audio !

cheers guys thanks for the help !!!!

Yeah its deceptive you can get to it from the engine bay but it is inside the guard it comes out behind the fuse box in the drivers kick. You can fit a semi trailer through it so the 0 gauge is fine. This grommet is there on almost all Nissan Imports S13/S14/S15 R32/R33/R34 180SX etc. Great for running cables neatly and out of sight. Pictures probably would have made it easier to find.

Yeah its deceptive you can get to it from the engine bay but it is inside the guard it comes out behind the fuse box in the drivers kick. You can fit a semi trailer through it so the 0 gauge is fine. This grommet is there on almost all Nissan Imports S13/S14/S15 R32/R33/R34 180SX etc. Great for running cables neatly and out of sight. Pictures probably would have made it easier to find.

Funny about that , its a pain on iphones haha

post-77241-0-02450800-1360669206_thumb.jpg

where it comes in from under the lining.

post-77241-0-44845500-1360669284_thumb.jpg

post-77241-0-19564600-1360669379_thumb.jpg

you can fish out the cable or just poke it through and hope that it comes out next to the fuses. Its doable without having to fish it out if you prefer not to.

post-77241-0-41676800-1360669412_thumb.jpg

the grommet rubber lining

post-77241-0-31596600-1360669904_thumb.jpg

dont forget to put a fuse inline you can purchase the inline fuses from jaycar or audio shops.Prefer the old tech cylindircal ones as theyre also water tight and very simple screw and go.

  • Like 1

post-77241-0-02450800-1360669206_thumb.jpg

where it comes in from under the lining.

post-77241-0-44845500-1360669284_thumb.jpg

post-77241-0-19564600-1360669379_thumb.jpg

you can fish out the cable or just poke it through and hope that it comes out next to the fuses. Its doable without having to fish it out if you prefer not to.

post-77241-0-41676800-1360669412_thumb.jpg

the grommet rubber lining

post-77241-0-31596600-1360669904_thumb.jpg

dont forget to put a fuse inline you can purchase the inline fuses from jaycar or audio shops.Prefer the old tech cylindircal ones as theyre also water tight and very simple screw and go.

The screw together ones fail to easy

The plastic threads get crossed up or break off

The cables do not positive lock and can work loose

The housings crack from heat in a turbo bay or any V style motors from header heat

Not recommended !!

And jaycars are just the same as fleabay made in china ones !!

The screw together ones fail to easy

The plastic threads get crossed up or break off

The cables do not positive lock and can work loose

The housings crack from heat in a turbo bay or any V style motors from header heat

Not recommended !!

And jaycars are just the same as fleabay made in china ones !!

as i said i prefer those for simplicity of an anologue setup ten years down the line it will still be working but the digital new stuff, too much variables.With cracking place it under the lining but i really doubt that it would crack. Each to their own.

as i said i prefer those for simplicity of an anologue setup ten years down the line it will still be working but the digital new stuff, too much variables.With cracking place it under the lining but i really doubt that it would crack. Each to their own.

After nearly 26 years in pro car audio

They fail !! Often , even faster in oz heat

the new ones digital as you put it ? Which has nothing to do with it fail less , but a good old resetable curcuit breaker works well too , has a heat proof bakelite contruction as well

And ring terminals dont normally fall out

And never have to buy fuse at 2-9 bucks a pop

with those you need a straight run in and out or the allen set screw works loose on heat and cool cycles or fiddling with the wires

Just many better choices for same cost

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And one last super random thought, I remember when SAUNSW had a dinner with Alan Heaphy, and another with Fred Gibson there was talk of the R32 GTR cast alloy uprights failing in racing, and one of the things Fred did when they had to add weight to the vehicle was taken the failing alloy uprights, and have them made of steel. Does anyone remember back to 1990/1991/1992 and WHAT was failing in the front hubs/uprights?
    • If you truly want to know how the original failed though, was it a factory defect possibly etc, send it off for investigation. Would probably cost a shit tonne.   The ones that you need to win lotto for, unless you have a good reason for that part to be bolt on, I'd probably roll with getting a few small stitch welds carefully put in place as an extra safety factor once everything is all torqued up tight
    • Are you sure? Because I wouldn't necessarily be. Do we even know the material they've made the new uprights from?   Looking at the fractures in the earlier pics, it does to me look like both a twisting, and levering upward action doing the damage, so you're hoping for both compression, and tension. Depending on the bolts, they can stretch (even high grade bolts will) and now you're hoping for the threads themself not to stretch, as if they do, bye bye mating surfaces holding together, hello bolts now going into shear.
    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
×
×
  • Create New...