Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Clutch Adjustment


fletch63
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Put this post up in general maintenance section and no replies as yet so I thought I'd ask some fellow sandgropers

I have just upgraded from a 33 GTST to a GTR and need to know how to adjust the grab point of the clutch as it is almost at the top of the clutch pedal throw

I did this on my GTST but this looks totally different

Can someone help as I have never worked on a GTR before

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should be the same on a GTST, Just "unlock" the 14mm nut and adjust the rod accordingly?

LOL " Should be the same " GTR run a clutch booster and is not wise to adjust the rod , adjusting the pedal will just screw things over . Let the people who know offer the advice ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL " Should be the same " GTR run a clutch booster and is not wise to adjust the rod , adjusting the pedal will just screw things over . Let the people who know offer the advice ..

The "same" in the sense they run the same type of rod/adjustment system regardless of having a booster or not.

In regards to the adjustment anyone who has fitted an after market clutch (say a twin plate) would have adjusted this rod to get the correct pedal adjustment. Just be carefull when adjusting. You always need about 2-3mm freeplay.

No free play will lead to excessive clutch wear, and too much will lead to a high grab point.

Oh an working on vehicles 5 days a week for almost 7 years, I think I have the "know" to give out this kind of advice :)

Edited by marksuxass
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In regards to the adjustment anyone who has fitted an after market clutch (say a twin plate) would have adjusted this rod to get the correct pedal adjustment. Just be carefull when adjusting. You always need about 2-3mm freeplay.

So you adjust the pedal side of a boosted clutch and nothing else ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I tried but failed in adjusting clutch

On my GTST there is a 12mm lock nut and a post to screw in/out

On the GTR the setup is the same but the post is covered by a rubber grommet all the way from the locknut to the firewall.

I tried to pull the grommet back but it doesn't look like it should be messed with.

There is also a pedal adjustment that doesn't effect grab point just gives you a longer or shorter maximum throw of the pedal

HELP

Anyone ???

Does this mean there is no adjustment and my clutch is worn?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Updating results.  Using ATR45SS-0 model VS UHF57-900. Those two are very different turbos, different wheels sets with different wheel hub profiles but yet with almost identical result. I’m intrigued with both turbos performance. ATR45SS-0 was a 61mm turbo first developed in May 2020, UHF57-900 was a 62mm turbo developed in March 2024 as a powered up alternative of a G30-900. On paper ATR45SS-0 maxed at 563rwkws, while UHF57-900 maxed at 568rwkws. ATR45SS was slightly more responsive with slightly better power band through the mid range.  Road driving ability, ATR45SS-0 had better throttle response, felt more robust under throttle, as it wakes up earlier. I think G series wheel hub design made it to have higher inertia under light throttle. Doing bit more prototype work in the next few weeks, will update result when its back on dyno again. ATR45SS0 Blue, UHF57-900 Red Chequered tuner's Dynapack hub dyno, E85 fuel. Mod list is in video below video_20240604_114214.mp4    
    • Did you run the power cables for the mac valve to the other side of the car near the fusebox? Utilizing the stock boost controller cables? or did you run new ones?
    • Hey I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣 I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics. My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar? is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end? I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?
    • Hi how are you guys?  I know i have been absent for years but im coming back slowly guys just wondering if anyone know where the ball joint on the NISMO arm front and rear can be replaced with OE parts?  Also  i know this is not the thread looking for springs and blistein shocks for the 260rs. Please advcie     cheers    yudy
    • Hi i do you have for stages 260rs?
×
×
  • Create New...