Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry for the life of me I couldbt find my other thread.

2 weeks ago My car stalled when I parked it. bow this stalling only happens after I have driven for more than a 30 min and everything is well into operating temp.

its is much more frequent now. Ive got my power fc into sensor check and keeping an eye on it.

unfortunately with all the searching i did all i can find is, it could be cas/O2/afm/aac

ive cleaned the afms abd aac. ive also jiggled thw afms to see if there is a problem with the connection. nothing happened or changed the sound of the engine.

I also gave the tps a jiggle. but nothing.

I know my O2 is meant to read between 0-1v fluctuating.

mine read as follow

cold start---> 0v

as soon as i take off---> the fluctuate slightly between 0.4-0.6

cruising ---> around 0.6v

free rev at 2k---> O2 #1 will read a 0v momentarily and go back to 0.5v

Also my car has richened. my mate says its a bit fumey on freeway. he also says boosting produces more vapour than before.

The drives perfectly unless I go to a stand still. And its not everytime. only when it feels like it.

throtlle saves it from stalling but only if you keep it at 2k+ as soon as you let it go it will stall. (this is when its acting up)

other times it will idle fine.

its intermittent so this is leading me to electrical.

also once the car stalls, i can start it up straight away with no problem.

Does this sound like cas/O2 or my stupid mafs?

thank you and sorry for the speel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410445-stalling-at-a-stop/
Share on other sites

lets expand the symptoms and ill keep this up with what i do and what happens haha.

twice today, i experienced a flat spot while just cruising. not underload. just drive at 60 and feels like loss of power O2 sensors read 00v then. and then boom back in as if nothing happened.

sweet. im lovin this.

Fuel filter is on the list. about 15,000 old.

i can certainly try and get my hands on a wideband. Havent checked the timing around the idle.

Just to add another sympton. it stalled while slowing down for a turn. approximately doing 20. it is definitely getting worse. so need to enter super diagnostic mode and get this shit sorted.

Drove today without the o2. sensors. car didnt stall once

drove on the freeway and parked without the idle being affected. car idled beautifully every time.

I did however still have that hesitation/loss of power every 10-15 minutes. that i thibk i will blame on my afms. sometimes it happebed on a bump sometimes under load ie up a hill.

so plan of action is to replace o2's and open my afms and have a look. if resoldering doent fix it then i am 1000000000000000% going link

did you come to any conclusions with this mate?

i have a rb20 32 thats doing something similar to this and i cannot for the life of me figure it out :(

it idles lower than usual (between 500-800 when its usually around 1000-1200) and when i come to an intersection or break to pull into driveway, street etc.. it wants to stall.

iv just been flicking it into neutral and using the handbrake to slow me at the last 5m so i can still play with accelerator pedal and keep revs higher to prevent the stall but im gettin sick of doing so lol..

And on a probably different situation, my battery light comes on when im on highway and go back to third to clean cobwebs out.. (only to the speed limit of course) and stays on for a while then goes off or just stays on entire time till i switch car off, but have never had a flat when i go to start it, any suggestions/answers guys?

Well, yours might be the battery terminals. Check em, make sure they arent loose.

Mine on the other hand,

I disconnected the o2's while driving and the car didnt stall once.

So I did a few things, resoldered the afms, coz the car was intermittently loosing power.

And I ordered new o2 sensors. I would have had them today but kudos f**ked up and didnt sign the declaration for express post so it defaulted to snail mail. Great, thanks guys.

So my conclusion will only be met next week. And if nothing has been solved then its back to the drawing board.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...