Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

have done plenty of research on the removal of boost restrictor on r33 gtr to get 14psi of boost.

I want to remove the restrictor but not cut it out so i have the option to re install it for sale etc.

Ive taken a picture of what i believe to be the yellow restrictor

what i ask from you;

Is this the right restrictor the yellow striped line?

How do i get the thing inside to come out so its non restricted without cutting the hose and rejoining it?

Thanks in advance for any replies and help.

post-100817-0-86636600-1350547703_thumb.jpg

post-100817-0-01228500-1350547706_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411825-removing-r33-gtr-boost-restrictor/
Share on other sites

Get a set of pliers, put them right behind the restricter and just push down on the hose until the restrictor moves up the hose. Move up the hose an repeat until it comes out. Save the restrictor, DO NOT THROW IT OUT. You might find that the increased boost leads to misfiring, so keep the restrictor to put back in if that happens (Obviously get this misfire issue fixed if that happens).

That's 380 - 420 mmHg. It actually says the units are 100mmHG on the gauge.

The reason that XKLABA wanted to know the answers to his various questions is part of the reason why you are not getting more like 700mmHg boost even with the restrictor removed. Your boost control system does not look standard. You need to know what about it isn't standard before trying to increase the boost with a trick that is supposed to work on the standard system.

/facepalm.

I agree with above, that blue hose isn't factory, and I have no idea what that thing is between the 2 lines.. it kinda looks like a wierd ass hose joiner. Looks like no mac valve (EBC solenoid) or a bleed valve or the factory boost controller.

380-420 mmHg is 7-8psi which sounds like actuator pressure.

Is it see-through plastic (looks like silver paint on it?) like this: http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=306&ret=http%3A%2F%

Then whoever you brought the car off orignally took the EBC out (most likely HKS EVC or another jap EBC that comes with these vacuum line filters) before sale and sold/kept the EBC.

With the hoses joined that that, you will only see actuator pressure (7-8psi). If you had the factory solenoid (found between battery and front drivers strut, labelled something like 'Nissan PCM valve') you would see 10-11psi with restrictor, and 14.7psi without restrictor.

If you don't have the factory solenoid, then get a decent boost T like a turbotech (the best of the boost T's) and adjust it, but bear in mind the resolution of the factory gauge is only +7 (13.2psi) and even then it's not very accurate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...