Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im a huge colonial marine nut and a fan of both the Alien and Predator franchise.. This game is a confirmed cannon sequel to James Camerons "Aliens" albeit in video game form.

Xeno's vs. Marines

Bishop is back (Lance Henriksson)

Hicks is back In both with SP and MP modes with Michael Biehn reprising his role.

Ive already pre-ordered my Collectors Edition for PC. Who else is getting A:CM ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXfp62yVC_0

FPS usually sucks the dick on consoles.

AvP2 was released in 2001 it was one of the best games of its time and still is concidered to be the best aliens game.

AvP2010 was shit and hugely dissapointing :(

Love Aliens franchise.

Watched Escape trailer, had wargasm :)

First trailer won't work though.

Not that I want to hijack the thread but I wonder how much a PC that could run this game in optimal graphics would cost...I am sure it is beyond the capability of my two year old netbook with integrated graphics card :)

yes im getting it and I love what Randy Pitchford(Gearbox Software President and CEO) says about it and is a huge fan which should make sure it a good game

here is a good video for it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4w3vlks9lYY

For all the guys who are geting on PC and for other hardcore FPS gamers this is my Steam profile: http://steamcommunity.com/id/TyranusAU/

Also this is a link to my clan page: http://steamcommunity.com/groups/fear-au

If your interested in joining hit me up fellas.

Not that I want to hijack the thread but I wonder how much a PC that could run this game in optimal graphics would cost...I am sure it is beyond the capability of my two year old netbook with integrated graphics card :)

$1800 at the most to run that on max settings, even then you could do it cheaper depending on what you already have.

A decent gaming PC is going to set you back 3k

$1800 at the most to run that on max settings, even then you could do it cheaper depending on what you already have.

Thanks for the replies guys. I will give it some thought.

FPS usually sucks the dick on consoles.

AvP2 was released in 2001 it was one of the best games of its time and still is concidered to be the best aliens game.

AvP2010 was shit and hugely dissapointing :(

can not agree with you more on that

and yes PC all the way

1.8k gaming pc wont last long on max without liquid cooling.

Rubbish.

I ran a E8400 @ 4.4ghz for 4.5 years and it was on 24x7 on air and i used to game heaps (last 3-4 months, not so).

Upgraded GPU every 12-18 months as needed (usually $500 spend). None of the cards I sold had any degradation and best of my knowledge, still work fine today (even the 4yr old one). Just make sure you select the right parts for the job and you won't have a problem.

I've since build 6 other PCs for friends and all run fine, budget generally $1600-$1800.

Anyway Paul, look @ this list, could refine it more - would run this game on MAX without any problems in the world @ 1920x1080, and would do it for years.

http://www.pccasegea...tion=wish_lists

Obviously if you have monitor then you come in around $1600. Just doesn't include keyboard/mouse/speakers as people generally have these.

So from that, even spending $3000, means it's not going to last! :rolleyes:

It's about as ridiculous of a statement as the one you just made i think?

If a part fails, it fails - that's what RMA is for. If you cooked it however, only you are to blame for that! Fact is the part list i put up will run the game no problem day in, day out forever (not counting part faults :rolleyes:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...