Jump to content
SAU Community

Stegea Ecu , 4 Wd Light , Susp , Etc

Aps

By Aps,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
Posted

I need some general info on replacing the ecu and how much this improves economy . Give us an rough cost involved for someone to replace it . I have a 01 250 t rs4 stock it could be a bit better on fuel knowing they are a thirsty car generally .A few other things while I'm on the forum for the people who are way more technical minded than me ; 4 wd light comes on intermittently ( dealer reset the comp and found no fault ). Auto trans , are the adjustable as the car kicks into second on slow turns into streets with normal driving and only wants to go into 1st if you really gas it ,it may just be the trait of the auto on these cars .

What is a quality muffler for these cars that resembles the factory twin tip ( mine sounds fine but only one seems to have any flow to it .

Lastly can u recommend a quality touring suspension upgrade and where in Adelaide would you trust to have a detailed check on the existing set up ?

Cheers Aappreciate any advice...

Can't wait till they start hammering those v8 nissans around clipsal !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412294-stegea-ecu-4-wd-light-susp-etc/
Share on other sites
ClassOne Enthusiast

ClassOne

Posted
Posted

What sort of economy are you getting?

The most you will ever put into the tank is 72L.

Nissan states last 10L is really usable.

My 250 t rs4 gets just under 10L/ 100 .

The economy really depends on your driving.. The throttle is very sensitive. Watch the boost gauge... If your driving along and want to pick up a little speed, apply accelerator and watch boost... You will notice that from 5th gear, when boost exceeds ATMO, box will drop down a gear. If TP is large and boost increasing rapidly, the down 2 gears and so on.

You can get a plenum spacer to help with this...

Also if you hate your delayed throttle , blitz make a module to fix this.

Exhaust is rubbish... Get a new front section, and a jap cat back, I'm going for the blitz nur touring system.

Coilovers, Cusco make a set in there zero comfort series... Upper mounts are a nolethane .. So nice and quiet .

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Sounds like the attessa needs bleeding.

The muffler is normal, one side open constantly, the other opens under boost hopefully.

The auto is a pos. It will never be in the gear you want it to be.

Get a set of BC coilovers, they are cheap and work exceptionally well.

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

On the economy issue I pretty sure I'm not getting 10l/100k but I'm doing mainly city driving and really not giving it too much stick ( kids school runs etc)the last service I mentioned the Economy so expected a better result but really haven't noticed an improvement , what is the main thing to mod to improve Economy ?will a new ecu do the trick ?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

A new ecu won't change anything, 10L per hundred is pretty good for a 2 ton turbo car, be glad you didn't buy the Holden sportswagon then.

If you feel it is still running a bit rich you could change the o2 sensor perhaps? They only last around 80,000k's apparently.

BC coilovers start at around $1200 on Just Jap I think.

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can u tell me what to expect to pay for a new cat converter , have been told replacing this will improve economy and response . Cars done 80000 ish , have had a tune , o2 checked and cleared of any issues , plugs gapped etc . Got quoted 550 from sinergy motors which is where I bought the car , does that sound about right ? The stock exhaust really doesn't seem too worn so not really keen to drop a heap of money just yet on a complete system , not until it really needs it so replacing the cat seems like the go . Cheers

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

By the way def not getting 10l/100k more like 15 think I can do better . The in car read out confuses me it reads differently from a lot I've seen 7.1km/ L and then a km read out below .

What the !!??

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

There are at least two restrictive cats on your car, one in the dump and one or more in the front pipe. Which parts were Sinergy replacing exactly?

PM me if you would like a quote for my proven dump/front pipe design. ;)

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Do as Scotty says and ditch the dump pipe and front pipe. If you need someone to install let me know and I can point you in the right direction. You'll end up with one new high flow cat, instead of two old, restrictive, f*cked ones.

In terms of suspension check up in Adelaide, I wouldn't bother. Just chuck in a set of BCs. I've got a set of BRs ($1299), Scotty cheaped out and got the V1s ($1199), which he's happy with. I'd probably also change the front end bushes.

Shift kit is a good idea but I don't think MV have the right kit. PM Jetwreck and see when he's doing another run, MV Automatics can install if you need.

You shouldn't need to take it back to Sinergy for anything now, and I'd expect you could get the cat replaced for less than $550 (If thats all you're doing - don't - replace dump and front pipe).

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm happy to get the standard service done there , and I've got an extended warranty through them but am happy to get any other work done else where , let me know where u recommend for the exhaust work and is that price include delivery or are you in Adelaide (Scotty ) ?

What labour $

Out of interest what would be a full system replacement cost ? Twin tip muffler , something reasonably subtle , and quiet if the old one packed it in

What's you're view on sinergy ? I bought the car from them and have had one service , discs machined .no probs at all , have heard a few murmers they are a bit pricey for more extensive work . I'm not looking at doing big mods on my car , I just want to keep it running and handling as smoothly as possible as the family car .

Thanks for the advice

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

I'm happy to get the standard service done there , and I've got an extended warranty through them but am happy to get any other work done else where , let me know where u recommend for the exhaust work and is that price include delivery or are you in Adelaide (Scotty ) ?

What labour $

Out of interest what would be a full system replacement cost ? Twin tip muffler , something reasonably subtle , and quiet if the old one packed it in

What's you're view on sinergy ? I bought the car from them and have had one service , discs machined .no probs at all , have heard a few murmers they are a bit pricey for more extensive work . I'm not looking at doing big mods on my car , I just want to keep it running and handling as smoothly as possible as the family car .

Thanks for the advice

Scotty is in Melbourne. If you need it fitted in Adelaide talk to AM Performance, Andrew is happy to install Scotty's gear once it arrives.

If you want to replace the rear too, which I don't think is quite as urgent, see what Scotty can provide, talk to Andrew at AM, or get a Jap exhaust.

I haven't had any dealings with Sinergy, but haven't heard anything particularly good. These cars are easy to service yourself, most people seem to DIY, so I wouldn't bother taking it back there.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Do as Scotty says and ditch the dump pipe and front pipe. If you need someone to install let me know and I can point you in the right direction. You'll end up with one new high flow cat, instead of two old, restrictive, f*cked ones.

In terms of suspension check up in Adelaide, I wouldn't bother. Just chuck in a set of BCs. I've got a set of BRs ($1299), Scotty cheaped out and got the V1s ($1199), which he's happy with. I'd probably also change the front end bushes.

Shift kit is a good idea but I don't think MV have the right kit. PM Jetwreck and see when he's doing another run, MV Automatics can install if you need.

I didn't cheap out Ryan, the V1's were the only struts available when I bought them nearly 4 years ago... (I was the first customer here I think) Still going strong.

I have a shift kit here, $300. Just take it to MV for fitting. :)

  • 4 weeks later...
Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Scotty can you quote me on a full system for the stegea m35 I'm thinking if the new front pipes plus inst. will b around the 1000 mark then it might b more cost effective to do the full system ( does that include twin tip muffler ) down the track .

Aegats Rising Star

Aegats

Posted
Posted

Aps did you get the 4wd light issue sorted out? Mine has started to come one, before it was every few weeks but now its like every 2nd time.

I've heard that bleeding the system or changing the relay. Is there any thing else that can be looked at?

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

According to the mechanic it's the pressure switch that is faulty , this however isn't sold as a individual part only the whole assembly . That's what there telling me anyway so if any one has more info let me know . Mine is on and off all the time , can't feel any issues with the drive .

Aegats Rising Star

Aegats

Posted
Posted

Ok, I'm curious to see how this goes. I don't feel any difference when driving with the 4wd light on but I'd rather get it sorted.

Sometimes when the light comes on I just switch of the car and restart it and the light disappears.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...