Jump to content
SAU Community

Time To Upgrade Exhaust...opinions Please..

Razon

By Razon,
in Tasmania

 Share

Recommended Posts

Razon Enthusiast

Razon

Posted
Posted

hey every1 just wondering if you guys could give me your opinion on a new exhaust, ive been reading up on how i should get a 3inch and whatnot,

what im wondering is do you guys think im better off picking up a exhaust locally and buy seperate peices (which probably wont fit...) or buying a known brand exhaust system off the net ?

these are some i have in mind....

HKS silent high power (no linky)

Blitz nur spec R

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18544&cat=273&page=1

Kakimoto Regu 06&r

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16356&cat=447&page=1

high-flow cat vs a normal cat? for a street car is a high flow needed? i've been looking at a 3" venom high flow cat would that be suitable?

how onto it are our cops regarding exhausts and defects?

ive seen a load of shitboxes that sound louder than some harleys so do we have a high decibel rating or do our cops just not give a shit? would rather find this info out now rather than later seeing as i dont want to have to replace a new zorst just because a bunch of nazi's think its too loud...(or stuff around replacing my stock exhaust just for a clearence..)

and also if i plan on uprading my turbo then i need to upgrade my dump pipe? (anything else exhaust wise?) would i be better off doing this now or do that when im replacing turbo (so i can get the right fitments??)

MatthewT85 Proficient

MatthewT85

Posted
Posted

i cant answer everything you've asked, but my car came with an hks super dragger cat back 3 inch, which was really quiet, JASMA approved, i had to get the mid muffler removed cause it had a hole and was making car too low when i got it back here, was still quiet, i recently put a jjr front dump and 5inch high flow cat and still is fine sound wise. the only problem i had with the jjr is when i got it installed the eshaust guy said it didnt bolt straight up, it had to be heated and shifted a bit....

cops are generally laid back here, unless you are hammering it high in the rev range.

ummm when you say is a high flow needed i guess it depends on what your plans on your car are, also when i emailed george from venom, he recommended the 5 inch body,

TJHill Collaborator

TJHill

Posted
Posted

Have heard the Blitz Nur system on a S14 and they sound really nice! Haven't looked into flow between different set ups though.

Cops don't appear to read decibels in tas but on rare occasion that they set up a inspection station they do get you to rev your car. But in saying that my mate had to rev his standard celica to 3k but my s13 at the time with rims, bodykit, and in undercoat was expected to be revved to 5k. Moral of the story, if your carlooks modified they will probably put more pressure on you but they don't really have a clue.

Razon Enthusiast

Razon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys im still looking at which exhaust sounds best out of them lot, im guessing a local option probably isnt too good ?

zoid your right but ive had a few policey driving alongside me and havent bothered me so far so i cant be too much of a asshole :P (uptights probably think otherwise)

autumn if i go that route should i do it all in one go or do it seperately? and if i do should i go a local or get a a pre-made system? if so can you recommend one? :)

Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
Posted

If your considering local and your in hobart PROFAB on gepp parade in goodwood would have to be worth a look. with Chris tanner and Chris Mcgrath on the Tigs, some impressive work is coming out of that place.

zoidbergmerc Mentor

zoidbergmerc

Posted
Posted

Yeah I've heard good things about them too.

If you're looking to get a zorst on the cheap though.

Get this http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18178&cat=276&page=1

and the 3" system I'm selling ;)

I'll even help you fit it all ;)

Razon Enthusiast

Razon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys, still undecided on what exhaust to go, dont mind spending a bit of $$ aslong as its a good setup for a decent street car

that bellmouth, is there a better one that i should go or is that more than enough for street? cheers

i've replied to your PM zoid :D

Razon Enthusiast

Razon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks xrated ill give him a ring soon and see what he thinks, yeah will be getting a mild steel dump, most likely the one zoid linked me

will a local one still sound as good as these brand name ones or will they be more tinny? how much will a custom one set me back roughly?

Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
Posted

Mild steel dumps went out with 202 reds and hotwires. What a crock of shit, had a just jap stainless dump on my car for 3 years and 55 thousand Kay's, 3 years of daily driving and about 8 track days. Now I have made my own, that's only done about 8 thousand Kay's and 2 or 3 track days. I had the just jap split dump, hardly top end product but did the job and sounded the part. Looked like brand new after 3 years, and 55k km's . If you want a half assed rusty piece of shit, go mild steel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...