Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

help!! ive just committed to buy some tomei arms m7655 turbs with ported stock manifolds and dumps, im running 14 psi high with a nismo cat back and m's intakes. has anyone fitted these to there stock 26, just read up they are laggy and not good for my motor..... ;( ... any advice????? thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412918-tomei-arms-m7655/
Share on other sites

Have a read of this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/368988-tomei-arms-m7655-on-rb26/

Long story short: More expensive than the tried and tried again garrett bolt ons (comparison to -5's seems like mostly) except laggier.

Here's the dyno graph of that guys run:

IMG_0835-1.jpg

How much power do you want and is this just for a street car? -7's might be a bit too small, they are the standard bnr34 n1 turbo. -9's would be better for an all rounder and still a decent upgrade.

-9's don't come with actuators standard though so you'd need to grab some with them, also a couple of the coolant fittings don't fit without modification so you can buy ones that fit for ~$70 extra.

Edited by Serpandrew

How much power do you want and is this just for a street car? -7's might be a bit too small, -9's would be better for an all rounder.

yeah mate just a street car.... know idea really, my plans eventually is to do, dumps,front pipes,injectors,fuel pump,turbs, power fc.. it doesnt have to be 1000000hp but enough to blow away a v8 haha

Why do you want to divert from turbos that have been tested and given good results multiple times to turbos you don't know anything about?

If it's a street car just get -9s and be done with it, almost everyone else will say the same thing :P

No worries, you should have a read of the following thread btw: http://www.skylinesa...rett-gt2860-9s/

Has heaps of examples, tells you everything you need to know about these turbos and other similar options and why you shouldn't go for other turbos.

Yes it's a long thread, but you'll be fully educated and won't have second thoughts after buying them :)

Edited by Serpandrew

No worries, you should have a read of the following thread btw: http://www.skylinesa...rett-gt2860-9s/

Has heaps of examples, tells you everything you need to know about these turbos and other similar options and why you shouldn't go for other turbos.

Yes it's a long thread, but you'll be fully educated and won't have second thoughts after buying them :)

rido will do, thanks again.

-5's are a bigger turbo, -7's are the smallest (~270-300atw?), then -9s a bit bigger (~310-330atw?), then -5s (~350-400atw) which will be laggy on a 2.6 and no good for street driving.

Don't quote me on the figures those are just estimates, for them you of course need all of the supporting mods. Have a read of that thread I linked you and it will answer all of your questions.

Stock turbos on any gtr (except the n1's) have ceramic wheels which can't take much boost, and they are fairly small anyway. All of the above are steel wheel and bigger turbos, they can take a fair amount of boost.

Just keep in mind that your engine is around or possibly even over 20 years old along with the turbos, those things have had a long life and you'd need to replace a lot to get a reliable and powerful result.

Edited by Serpandrew
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...