Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR

So after searching around for awhile, I cannot find any other threads that cover the issue I'm having

(At least none that people actually posted fixes in anyway)

So basically, As long as I can remember, my right low beam headlight has always been dicky, turning on and off for no obvious reason. Not that big of a deal, good ol' Lefty will keep me goin'.

My dial switch had failed long ago with the previous owner, who had simply attached the low beams switch to a toggle. This had been working fine for nearly two years until one day, BOTH low beams stopped working.

I still retain parkers (Separate circuit I know) and strangely High Beams. This suggests to me that it could be one of the relays is not making the connection for the low beams. Really want to solve this issue as I don't want to drive around using my high beams for the rest of my days.

I've tested continuity throughout the entire system and seem to have 1/1 connection. which just confuses me more!

Please MTV SAU Fix My Ride!

But seriously, for the good of me and the retinas of other road users, I need to work this out.

Any info people can offer would be really appreciated.

A friend of mine used to have a 32 and we sspent a while one night with an issue with his lights. Think it was similar. Only 1 low beam or both low beams were off but high beams worked. Ended up being something in the indicator stalk (high beam part of it of course)

From what I know they go bad with age because of the way the are designed

Same issue on my 32 GTR. I bought 2 x 2nd hand replacement switches and both were similarily farked.

I was also told it could be stalk related but in my case it wasnt.

If it's already rewired the low beam to another switch I'd take a second look at wiring, fuse or the brown resistor/relay in the main fuse box in the engine bay.

The only thing that fixed it for me was replacing the dial switch on the dash with a new one from RHD.

I read about a mod too keep the low on when switching to high.

Basically join the high and low wires near the plug behind the dash.

Ps my 32 lights are a nightmare, thinking about making a whole new circuit just for them. i just cant work out wtf is going on with the hi-lo wiring.

I read about a mod too keep the low on when switching to high.

Basically join the high and low wires near the plug behind the dash.

Ps my 32 lights are a nightmare, thinking about making a whole new circuit just for them. i just cant work out wtf is going on with the hi-lo wiring.

LOL - The only thing that fixed it for me was replacing the dial switch on the dash with a new one from RHD.

Sounds like the high/low dipper switch. They give trouble with age and can be repaired if you're keen.

But unless you address the woeful wiring design it will fail again.

These cars switch full amperage at the high/low dipper switch, it's not switched by relays.

When guys fit 100w bulbs or even worse, mod the dip switch to switch low on with high there's not much hope.

To fix the car you need to modify the factory wiring and install relays to do the switching. Then your dip switch will only be switching the trigger load, which is tiny.

Also fit a diode to trigger low to stay on with high.

You'll see a vast improvement in the lights as voltage drop is eliminated.

Fit 4500K max HID's to low beam if you have the projector style and with low + high the highway illumination is excellent.

Retain conventional halogen bulbs for high so they switch on quickly unlike the HID's.

Here's my fuse box showing the extra relays and diode.

Job isn't difficult, probably half a day, you need to source factory relays so it all looks the part.

post-73571-0-62825800-1352112910_thumb.jpg

Thanks Jiffo!! Rare to actually get a detailed response to these kinds of threads so thanks a lot for your info!

I bit the bullet a few days ago and basically just ran new wiring from a switch inside to a separate relay and new wiring for the headlights. I'll be doing this again shortly for the highbeams, just to save myself any hassle in the future.

But again, thanks for the info! Really glad someone still cares about the "HELP ME!!" threads :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...