Jump to content
SAU Community

S15 Caliper Bolts Have Come Loose On Front Brakes?

BakemonoRicer
 Share

Recommended Posts

BakemonoRicer Grand Master

BakemonoRicer

Posted
Posted

So I just finished getting slotted rotors + new ebc greenstuff pads + hardware kits

Anyway, I'm in the process of seasoning the rotors and when I got home the caliper bolts were poking out halfway (bottom bolt on driver side and passenger side, top ones remained secure)...

The bolts have a crevice for a flat screwdriver...

A qualified tradesman installed the brakes....so is this normal to happen?

If not, how can I fix this?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

first, your qualified tradesman has made a major, dangerous f**kup. You should call them and abuse them tomorrow.

It is easy enough to bolt the calipers back up properly, you just need the right size spanner or socket (preferably on a 1/2" drive).

Don't drive the car until it is fixed, you are likely to lose your brakes entirely.

On second reading, I am not sure you mean the caliper mounting bolt - can you post a pic?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well that's good news, but still not safe.

that is the pin that holds the spring that holds the brake pads in place. They should have had an R pin or split pin to stop them slipping out.

To fix that, you need 4 small split pins. Jack the car up, take the wheels off and you will see at the other end of those pins they have a hole drilled through them. You can put the split pins through the hole in the back (bend back at least 1 leg when you have) and it will be fine.

Or, ring the shop and tell them to come and fix it. They probably have the original R pins sitting on their floor somewhere

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...