Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Have just got my hands on a brand new Power FC (the new releases that Apexi have bought out) and it seems to work fine in the car, but will not let FC-Edit talk to it. I get an error something like:

'FC-Edit is unable to communicate with RB25DET version 7'

It then performs a scan and saves it as a file. I've sent this off to the FC-datalogit guys, but I'm a bit unsure how that is going to turn out as I have inherited the FC-Edit I own and am using an FC-Hako. I'm more then happy to register it and pay for software rights etc, but just waiting to see what the outcome is

Just wondering if any of the shops/tuners have come accross this yet and if there has been a fix provided yet

Hopefully it will help out others in my position also as I couldnt really find any information on this when I searched for it. I've plugged the new power FC in and I'm keen to be on Version 7.00 and not have to go back to my version 2.20E unit :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414113-new-version-power-fcs-and-fc-edit/
Share on other sites

For those of you playing at home

you need FC-Edit version 2.130k for the new Power FC's to talk to FC Edit :)

The guys at FC-Datalogit were very helpful. So hope this helps someone out one day.

I wasnt able to just save my old map and then write all to the new PFC, but it wasnt to bad, just had to write the IGN and INJ table, then do a bit of mucking around in the settings to get them to update. Injector settings had to be changed manually but.

i had them make version 2.130 a few months back for me as quite a few new pfc's are filtering through. there is a new tps vs ign feature that wasn't always active in all versions..

  • 1 year later...

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm facing the same issue

Have gone online and managed to find 2.130, have mucked around with 2.128 and 2.130 for 2 hours now but we're still getting the same error message, does anyone have a link for 2.130k?

I'm assuming the 2.130k is the one that talks to the latest Pfc right? Not the 2.130?

Edited by chiksluvit

Yep you need V2.130k or newer (if they have made a newer version since then)

I think I just emailed them and they just sent me the new version. With FC-Edit when you try and connect it makes some sort of .dat file (should notify you it is doing this because of incompatible version etc) and sent that off to them and they emailed me back the new copy of FC-Edit. Not sure if it will work for you, you may need to provide proof that you own the software. But worth a try

Thanks mate

unfortunately it's not my datalogit. With so many plug-in options recently like nistune or adaptronic etc, my tuner hasn't come across any r33s with the latest PFC.

he did shoot off the .dat file to datalogit, but the fc datalogit team normally takes around 1 mth to get back to his emails, so I'm just trying to see if there are quicker ways to get access.

we also tried logging into his datalogit yahoo group, but his ID has since been unregistered.

Anyway thanks at least we know he definitely needs the 2.130K and 2.130 won't work

.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...