Jump to content
SAU Community

Crank Pulley Installation Tool - Can Anyone Help? :)

JustinP

By JustinP,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

I'm just wondering if anyone in the Perth area (I'm in Vic Park) has a crank pulley installation tool that I could borrow tomorrow? I will come and pick it up / return it, put a deposit down, provide beer etc :P

Or alternatively, know where I could buy one at a reasonable price to suit Nissan engines, either today, or tomorrow?

I have a really tight Ross balancer and I'm going to need a proper tool to get it on :/

Cheers!

Justin

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

You dont really need an install tool to fit the balancer on an RB. Its ideal yes. But not a massive requirement.

You can just use the bolt to press it on as it has a large thread. But it can't be too tight a fit.

The reason they have have those install tools is for engines where the crank pulley bolt is only a 10 or 12mm bolt and will not be able to press the balancer on.

When i was looking at doing this, i looked at buying the tool to do it. They were all a generic tool with threads, adapters etc to fit a lot of engines. However none came with the M16/18? shank to suit the RB25 crank.

In the end, i just pressed it on with the crank pulley, it was actually a walk in the park. Pressed on very nice and easily. Put anti seize on the crank and wound the bolt in then torqued it. Easy.

The interference fit was very close to ROSS' specifications though.

I'm not sure how out yours is? You need a telescoping gauge and micrometer to creaturely measure the crank and the ID of the balancer.

EDIT - If its too tight you can't fit it period, this was done by a friend of mine with his ROSS balancer onto his engine, he didn't have a care in the world for specifications or the interference fit. Needless to say, when it was time to get the balancer off, it was almost impossible too and the crank had been damaged from such a tight interference fit.

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheer's Kitto, I will give the standard bolt a go. At first I didn't think it would fit on at all, although I just measured with digital callipers. I sent it back to Ross and he checked it with a proper inside mic and the measurements were apparently all good and within spec, so I will give it another crack tomorrow with the standard bolt.

It is a pretty chunky bolt, should be OK I think.

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The balancer should just sit on the tip of the crank before it stops. Then you start winding the bold in.

Make sure you put never seize on the crank.

Thanks Kitto, you were right, it went on pretty easy.

Not happy with Ross, I just got the balancer back from them and they have dropped it, putting a huge dent in it (picture attached). The box they sent it back in was fine so it was obvious they dropped it before sending it back. :rant: I put it on anyway, hopefully it will be alright.

post-31977-0-43132300-1353741026_thumb.jpg

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Far out, thats bad! Id be looking at them getting it fixed, especially for what they cost.

Yes I should complain given the cost, but to be honest I'm sick of dealing with them and waiting to actually install it, so I'm just going to leave it. It shouldn't have any effect on it balance or function, or at least I hope!

NoFigJamHere Enthusiast

NoFigJamHere

Posted
Posted

Dude if your 100% sure that the damage was NOT there when you sent it dont ask ROSS.... DEMAND a brand new one... Its called a HARMONIC BALANCER for a reason... Not a banged up lump of steel and rubber to drive belts!!! The fact they sent it back like that is INEXCUSEABLE imo..

PS: Make sure you torque the bolt correctly? Not the old "Impact/Rattle Gun" She'll be right method....Its the Number 1 cause of oil pump failures on RB's......Crappy chinese (were many branded items now come from), old clapped out balancers are up there aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...