Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 161
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah... a 10cm distance :whistling:

Usually don't have someone hooking under the arms, just ready to assist with the bar shadowing it. When I used to do squats years ago in a supervised environment we were just instructed to drop them, never got assisted. Wrong or down to preference?

Although that was a while ago, could be mixing up the dropping with deadlifts. My memory is terrible.

Edited by JEPPE

down to preference i believe. i've read people say (actually over in the gym thread here haha) that if you're going on heavy weights (where you might have difficulty) then don't use the collars, so that if you really are in trouble then just tip over and drop off the weights. remember that the bar will swing up though haha

^^^ That's only with Benching.

If you're squatting by yourself, you really should be doing it in a power cage with the safety bars there to prevent you crushing yourself or damaging the bar.

You can't spot a squat by shadowing the bar.

unless you want to hurt yourself and the lifter.

Edited by TTT

I suppose it wasn't spotting as much as it was assisting, I get what you mean though.

Have seen people using the cages before, sometimes they seem to do it at obscure angles though. Is it meant to be used as if squatting without a cage?

in a proper comp, you have spotters on either side of the bar too.

Their job is to help lift the bar.

the spotter behind is there to keep the lifter from falling or folding over etc.

Charlie - the safety bars can be removed.

you can do everything in there as the pin height where you put the bar has many heights.

Most of those cages will also have chin up handles on the top and some have dipping bars on the side.

That's why they are great for home gyms.

you get a power cage, a bench, barbell and weights and you can do 99% of what you need.

the best technique in heavy squatting is to have no spotter behind you, and if you fail you just throw the bar behind you.

It's the safest and easiest, and means you don't need a power rack or a spotter to squat to failure.

the best technique in heavy squatting is to have no spotter behind you, and if you fail you just throw the bar behind you.

It's the safest and easiest, and means you don't need a power rack or a spotter to squat to failure.

I honestly can't see how it's possible to get the bar to fall BEHIND you on a squat that you failed due to being unable to lift it.

If you squat high bar and can keep your torso upright, it will be easier to dump the bar behind you.

Low bar and wider stance has you leaning forward more.

That would be hard to dump the bar behind you.

Also depends where in the lift you fail.

If your hips raise faster than your torso (bad form or fatigue etc etc) you'll end up in a good morning type position and you won't be able to dump the bar behind.

If you squat high bar and can keep your torso upright, it will be easier to dump the bar behind you.

Low bar and wider stance has you leaning forward more.

That would be hard to dump the bar behind you.

Also depends where in the lift you fail.

If your hips raise faster than your torso (bad form or fatigue etc etc) you'll end up in a good morning type position and you won't be able to dump the bar behind.

Yeah I was thinking this.

Plus I'm in the mindset of low bar anyway, high bar is uncomfortable as all shit for me.

I honestly can't see how it's possible to get the bar to fall BEHIND you on a squat that you failed due to being unable to lift it.

let go of the bar and move forward. Maybe easier with a high bar upright squat but unless you are good morning the squat for some reason it's easy to do with a low bar squat too

Or you could squat in a rack/cage that has safety bars and ass to ground it onto the bars if you can't lift it...

I hate squatting in a cage, everything is so close and i get a bit claustrophobic.

Outside is fine, it shouldn't be that often that you are failing on a squat in training anyway

the best technique in heavy squatting is to have no spotter behind you, and if you fail you just throw the bar behind you.

It's the safest and easiest, and means you don't need a power rack or a spotter to squat to failure.

provided you have bumper plates and a floor that is okay to drop weight on

when at commercial style gyms I squat with no spotter and no safety bars... then you have no choice but to make the lift... you'd be amazed how a bit of panic/fear can help you out of the hole lol (don't do this with 1RM attempts obviously)

provided you have bumper plates and a floor that is okay to drop weight on

when at commercial style gyms I squat with no spotter and no safety bars... then you have no choice but to make the lift... you'd be amazed how a bit of panic/fear can help you out of the hole lol (don't do this with 1RM attempts obviously)

I know, that's why i never squat with spotters or a rack.

I guess if you can't drop the weights then use a rack i guess. Spotters are useless imo for squatting when training

Markos posted this on another forum... a must read for girls (make sure you read the last couple of pages)

http://startingstrength.com/articles/training_perspective_gillian.pdf

"In Mark Rippetoe’s words, “Your appearance when fit is almost entirely a result of your genetics,

which are expressed at your best only when your training level is at its highest, and this level is only

obtainable from a program based on an improvement in your performance, in the gym or on the

field. And the best improvements in the gym occur when participating in a program that looks more

like performance athletics – the kind of training done by competitive athletes – than one that looks

like waving your arms and legs around on a machine or slowly rolling around on the floor” (Strong

Enough?, p118)."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...