Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, seems my garage queen GTR with only 3500kms on the clock (and never been launched) has the dreaded Bellhousing issue. My GTR was in for the 20,000kms 12 month mandatory service today, and the Nissan tech reported there was >1cm play in the tailshaft.

Means new 2013 bellhousing, shaft, flywheel and bearing replacement will be installed under warranty (thank god). Nissan are ordering the parts today, so should be in stock in a few weeks.

Nissan have said I can drive the car, but my question is how hard? While I don't launch the car, is it still ok for spirited drives like mountain climbs, etc?

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so you did the 20,000 km service at 3500km?

i thought i was bad doing the 20 at 15k

launching has nothing to do with it, it's a design fault

Hahaha, yeah, well following the servicing handbook, I have to do the 12 month mandatory service or the warranty = void. Just so happens to be the 20,000kms one at the same time. I tend to do about 4000kms every 12 months, so my GTR is babied. Mind you, the first set of Bridgestones are almost bald, so its spirited driving lol

Good to know launching it doesnt cause the issue. I assume the car is still ok to drive until the parts arrive to repair it? Mark @ Moorooka Nissan said the Bellhousing is no longer an engine out affair, but the subframe has to be dropped. Sounds like they know what they're doing.

yeh there's no issues if it's just making some noise

most R35s are driving around with rattles and owners don't realise it's an issue

it's not too hard to do, just requires removal of alot of parts

mine makes a bit of noise ive been told, but tbh imo its been making the same noise since i drove it off the showroom floor. i might have to do it at some stage but would prefer to do it myself at my own mechanic if/when

what seemed to really quieten my car was doing the cobb tcm update, gear shifts up and down are so much smoother and quiter
Edited by domino_z

Nissan have kept my GTR in over night. Tomorrow they have to start the serial no trail on current parts, and order replacements. I asked if I could have the defect parts, Nissan responded by saying all of them will be shipped back to Japan for inspection....

Yeh standard practice for defect parts to go back

I have an imperfection in plastic grain on a door trim on my evo, Mitsu aus are happy to replace full door card under warranty but won't let me do the install, so I ended up just buying it

Edited by domino_z

Be aware that even in a current generation MY12 bellhousing there is a degree of float. Is it making a shocking noise?

On the downshifting when warm - from say 4th to 1st as you come into a stop, there is a massive rattle as the transmission releases to coast. The actual rattle while stationary in P & N isnt that bad (IMO hasn't changed since new with 43kms on the clock and isnt as bad as some youtube vids I've seen), but Nissan said the play in the shaft exceeds 10mm, and therefore requires replacement.

Nissan also indicated late yesterday that the parts will be from the 2013 car.

I don't know how long it will take Nissan to get the parts in and do the work, but I hope it's before xmas!

Edited by Wardski

Well, it's good that the dealer id's the issue and offered to fix it without issues.

Mine was replaced recently and I have never launched either.

How long did it take Nissan to get the parts in mate?

It was funny talking to the tech when I was chasing a pick-up time yesterday. He kinda sounded embarrased that they found the issue and that the bellhousing had to be replaced.. Certainly have gained some trust with Moorooka Nissan in Bris. They seem to know what they're doing. I was also glad they decided to keep the GTR in over night in order to follow the "Nissan Diagnosis and reporting Flow chart" in order to minimise the order/replacement time.

Edited by Wardski

Same thing on my 2010!

Had it replaced early this year during my 30'000K service at Von Bibra on the Gold Coast.

They did a great job with NO delays.

I sure hope the replacement is stronger than the original????

When Nissan Obviously know World wide that this part is rubbish, they should cause u to experience NO delay!

Hey Wardy when your pick your car up. Ask them how much all the work would have cost if the car was out of warranty.

$12k. The main cost is the 2 days x 2 technicians in labour.

I picked up the GTR this morning at 9 after a lengthy diagnosis and Moorooka Nissan receiving confirmation from Japan that the Warranty replacement is required and approved. Has been booked in for a new bellhousing in 2 weeks... Lucky for me the GTR isn't a daily, I was almost committing suicide having to drive the base model Dualis courtesy car around waiting for Nissan to give me the all clear to collect..!

What saddened me a little though, was another totally stock super silver 09 GTR sitting silently in the corner with rear wheels on casters and a fully locked up rear diff which had been delivered to Moorooka yesterday afternoon... The tech mentioned the issue with it has Japan stumped, as well as it being out of warranty...... :(

Edited by Wardski

Hi Guys, does anyone know if this bellhousing issue applies to the 2011 model? I am looking to buy a used GTR at the moment and was warned about pre-2011 models and their transmission failures.

Hi Guys, does anyone know if this bellhousing issue applies to the 2011 model? I am looking to buy a used GTR at the moment and was warned about pre-2011 models and their transmission failures.

All models of the GTR are prone to transmission issues. The bellhousing issue is present in the 2007-2012 models AFAIK.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...