Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

At the end of the day that is what warranty is for... Any such major mechanical work outside of a warranty period will be expensive.

I bought a MY12 and was shown the section in the warranty book which allows space for two gearbox replacements!!

These cars are heavy they will stress and break things but they shouldn't unless you are abusing them for long periods.

I'm hoping that the aftermarket guys will have all such issues sorted with the three year warranty period. I'm going to try and get use of my warranty period (for a change!)

Willal have a fix to save your bell housing before its too far gone

In fact they can open the box and fix just about anything

I really don't see why owners need to be so scared of failures that may/may not happen

The potential in this motor is criminal not to exploit with aftermarket parts

lol at 12k

uber exaggerated dealer costs at their finest

the housing can be bought for around 1k shipped

Its not just the bellhousing that gets replaced. Add in Flywheel, bearings and centre shaft.. then it becomes expensive. Apparently mine needs the lot!

hmmm not sure why nissan are replacing your driveshaft after so little kms this is the flywheel housing http://www.speedforsale.com/nissangtrparts/nissan-oem-nissan-oem-flywheel-housing-p-1787.html?osCsid=uhxnoubuikc
I'm not sure why its being replaced if that's not the common thing to do. I wonder what else has gone wrong..?? Or being 2013 parts, maybe there is a design change..?? Edited by Wardski

Its not just the bellhousing that gets replaced. Add in Flywheel, bearings and centre shaft.. then it becomes expensive. Apparently mine needs the lot!

12K is crap. You only need to replace the bellhousing. As domino_z has pointed out it is $800US. Around $1000shipped. Nissan Aus will sell you one for $1400 if you don't want to be a cheap arse like me. In the US, Nissan used to pay the mechanics for 8hrs labour under warranty to replace it, they have now dropped that down to 4hrs. It can definately be replaced without the motor coming out. You would be looking at $3000 tops to have this job done.

The 2011 and 2012 bellhousings are the same part number and as has been told to me these are the ones that have been re-designed to stop the issue from occuring. Willall do make a fix with shims for around $200 to take up the slack but for me I prefered just to buy a new part than I knew was correct from the beginning. I hope this helps somewhat.

12K is crap. You only need to replace the bellhousing. As domino_z has pointed out it is $800US. Around $1000shipped. Nissan Aus will sell you one for $1400 if you don't want to be a cheap arse like me. In the US, Nissan used to pay the mechanics for 8hrs labour under warranty to replace it, they have now dropped that down to 4hrs. It can definately be replaced without the motor coming out. You would be looking at $3000 tops to have this job done.

The 2011 and 2012 bellhousings are the same part number and as has been told to me these are the ones that have been re-designed to stop the issue from occuring. Willall do make a fix with shims for around $200 to take up the slack but for me I prefered just to buy a new part than I knew was correct from the beginning. I hope this helps somewhat.

But I'm getting 2013 parts..... Nissan said the bellhousing, flywheel and shaft are different. Bearing sizes are different too........ Sounds to me like a considerable re-design.

Oh, and 2012's seem to be affected by this issue too. I also thought 2012's were cured, but a mate of mine with a June build 2012 has just been diagnosed (today)...

Edited by Wardski

Be aware that even in a current generation MY12 bellhousing there is a degree of float. Is it making a shocking noise?

he already has (somewhat :P)

check out NAGTROC. a few found defective already...

Edited by Wardski

The MY2010+ GTR uses a different type of shaft location - its retained by clips versus the original. Both will make noise, but the earlier bellhousing will allow the shaft to flog out the entire housing where the later design wont. Neither are the very best design, but the later piece is far far better. Hope that helps :)

So Martin, if you have a 2011-2012 bellhousing out of the car is there anything that can be done to stop all noise? I don't want to put it in and still have it noisy.

http://www.willallracing.com.au/transmission.htm#wr35tsb

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...