Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Selling my pride and joy. Time to move onto bigger and better things (such as a work car).

Here's some information on it:

Price: $18,000 - Really quite firm on this.

Make/Model: 1995 Nissan R33 GTR (Series 1)

KMS: 92,000

Service History: I'm religious about this. Has had it's 100,000km service done by Racepace along with all engine mods. Only use the best fluids.

Accident History: I found out that it had a knock to the rear left quite a while back. Seller didn't inform me of this, was only the mechanic to point it out. Wasn't anything serious though.

Rego until 06/13

No RWC. I don't have the time to get this done as I run a small business that takes up every day. It won't need much as it is really well kept.

Location: Croydon, Victoria 3136

Comes with heaps of receipts and information.

Engine Mods:

A'pexi Super Suction Kit + pods

Cold Air Intake (home made)

Blitz FMIC (stock piping)

Bigger fuel pump (unknown brand)

Power FC + Hand Controller

Garrett GT2860-7 Turbos running 16psi

Adjustable Actuators

Racepace Adjustable Cam Gears

Full 3" Trust Titanium Exhaust with 4.5" tip. Very awesome sounding.

BRAND NEW Excedy Single Plate HD Clutch. Surprisingly light on the foot.

Oil Cooler + Catch Can

Fully rebuilt rear diff (cost a heap!)

Brakes / Suspension:

Tein Coilovers. Height adjustable only.

Adjustable rear camber arms (in box)

Adjustable front toe arms.

Standard Brembos front and rear (black calipers)

RDA Slotted Rotors (Front)

Slotted Rotors (unknown brand) rear

EBC Red Stuff Front Brake Pads (will stop you on a dime!)

Wheels / Tyres:

Lenso 18 x 9.5" Black mesh rims with red lip.

Kuhmo KU36 255/40/R18 Tyres. These weren't cheap. Incredibly grippy.

Exterior:

Nismo style stripes. Red White and Grey with checkered flag effect.

Full carbon fibre bonnet.

Freshly painted rear wing. Bought this with a duckwing, didn't like it very much so bought a GTR one.

SAU-Vic Stickers (very cool)

Interior:

Pioneer Head Unit

4 x Sony 6" Splits

Earthquake 4ch amp

Kenwood 12" Subwoofer in box

Fire Extinguisher

Dyno Figures:

284.8wkw @ 16psi. This would be roughly equivalent to 260awkw. Could easily crack 300kw with a bit more boost. I decided to keep to 16psi as this is pretty much a daily / impractical work car.

Bad points:

Front bar has stone chips (See photos)

Lower part of front bar is a bit worn.

There is a small "gash" on the rear passenger quarter panel. It started off as a scratch and has opened up in the last couple of weeks. I would think due to the fluctuating temperature of Melbourne. I think the price reflects this as it wouldn't cost much to have it fibreglassed up.

So as above I'm chasing $18,000 for this car. It's incredibly responsive and quick, whilst having the coilovers adjusted for street softness and practicality. Considering I paid roughly $25k for this 3 years ago, and have spent at least another $10-15k on it I think it is a magnificent buy. Unfortunately the market isn't fantastic for sellers and I need to have this gone within the next month or so. I am a bit firm on the price, although can be negotiated slightly if a keen buyer comes along.

I'm able to be contacted at 0400531138 or send a PM on here. I don't live at the house that the car is at any more, but am a 10min drive down the road so please give me some warning if you want to come look at the car and go for a test drive.

Please see pictures below!

Cheers,

Ash

post-34267-0-08914200-1354693506_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-05471200-1354693524_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-86235800-1354693602_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-59239900-1354693613_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-87157300-1354693674_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-37050500-1354693678_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-27983300-1354693682_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-63464000-1354693685_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-56333900-1354693688_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-45106900-1354693691_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-95351000-1354693694_thumb.jpg

post-34267-0-11638500-1354693698_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415023-95-r33-gtr-series-1-amazing-car/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

In its current state I would very hesitantly take 16k. I have some quotes to get that rear quarter panel fixed for around 1k so I would add this after I get it fixed (hopefully late next week).

When you see nice 33's going for around 10 I am so surprised it hasn't sold by now. I paid roughly 25 for the car 3 years ago and have put at least another 10 into it. I know you don't get your money back but I didn't expect to have to go this low :(

The car looks really nice and I saw it first when I was GTR hunting on carsales, but yeah it's definitely a buyer's market at the moment. I picked up my series 2 R33 GTS-T with 260rwkw for 8k. I've only had my car for two months and I'd love to upgrade to a GTR but at double the price i'm wondering is it really twice the car. I honestly don't know because I haven't been in any skylines besides my own. What do you reckon?

Edited by jukic.j

Depends what you want it for.. but YES its worth the extra cash.!

just think 260kw at 2 wheels, now imagine that at 4 wheels........

obviously not twice as quick, but you get the point i hope..

I realise that GTS-T's do go for that amount, but after having a GTR I'd never go back to rwd (I've had a s13, tt soarer, r32 gts-t beforehand). It's a completely different car in comparison. Feels much more responsive and powerful across the whole rev range, brakes are incredible, interior is much more race-spec and that awd is such fantastic engineering for the car's age. You actually feel like the thing is on rails.

Not just performance-wise but I think stylistically it's much nicer- looks tuff as nails from all angles.

Speak to any GTR owner and they'll agree, there is no comparison to the GTS-T ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...