Changing clutch

[armbrusb]

I want to change my clutch. I have an R32 GTS4. I am looking at putting an Xtreme single plate in, but that's beside the point.

Can anyone list the steps that I will need to take to do this at home. I will be doing it with the car up on four ramps. Can you also give the job a pain-in-the-ass rating with ten being the worst job out. I need to pit the difficulty of the job against the 6hrs at $65 that it will cost someone else to do it.

I guess the other benefit to doing it myself is that once I've done it, it wouldn't be so bad the next time. In the past I have changed my turbo, and cams and exhaust, ecu, intecooler (to GTR) so I guess I'm reasonably mechanically minded.

Any thoughts would be of help.

[BigDatto]

PITA rating = 10

unless you have a 2 or 4 post hoist, bigass trolley jack(s), solid lengths of hardwood, torque wrench & clutch alignment tool.

I think (?) rev210 did an ECR33 clutch (being a keen DIYer like myself) and in hindsight would have much rather paid someone else to do it. Absolute bastard job without proper workshop equipment.

If you value your sanity cough up the $300, if you're a true masochist - go for it :headspin:

[browny]

I've changed a few clutches (not on a skyline tho). 10/10 PITA rating is about right.

The actual clutch changing part isnt the hard bit - its getting at the bellhousing bolts and getting the input shaft back into the clutch plate (which involves manouvering the gearbox).

[Bl4cK32]

10/10 PITA

[Mr GTS4]

absoutly 10/10.. i did a auto to manual conversion and the gearbox weights about 150kg's so you need at least 2 guys doing it... easiest why to get it in and out is to use a car jack length ways under the gearbox and lowered like that. you can also use a input shaft out of a 180b gearbox to align the clutch...

do a search for conversion and clutch changes..

have fun

[Bl4cK32]

Hey guys, Im putting an rb25det on my rb31det out of the car, and its almost on. Like im talking 10 mm and its on.

We felt it slide into the splines (OS Giken twin and fly), but its like it dosent wanna go that last 10mm:rant:

Wtf could be stopping it going in?? We had 5 guys on it jiggling, tipping etc....nothing....10mm out.

Any help to go in the last bit? And no, Im not putting in the bolts, then doing em up to pull it on.....

[Jay95R33]

I've done a few now.

So far I think it's been a R32 GTS4, R33 GTS-t, R32 GTR and a Celica GT4. Not to mention the odd Holden HK and a Mini But they don't really count..

I would say that if your good with a spanner and you can get a few blokes together to help out then you might want to give it a try.

Hardest things with a R32 GTS4 is the top starter motor bolt, the top two gearbox bolts, and the worst part is getting the box to line back up with the splines.

I'm pretty sure someone has posted up a step by step process somewhere on here, or maybe on SDU.

A few tricks:

Make sure you have 2 or trolley jacks, will make you life much easier, the gearbox is VERY heavy.

Jack the front of the motor up so the motor tilts backwards so you can get to the top two gearbox bolts.

Have atleast four 12 inch extensions. You'll need to put them all together to reach the top two gearbox bolts.

Get yourself a clutch alighnment tool, or even an input shaft out of another nissan gearbox (we used a 180b input shaft !! yes, they are the same...) cause you could spend a good hour or two trying to mate the gearbox back up to the clutch/motor.....

That's the main ones, other than that it's just like changing any clutch.

Good luck.

J

[Bl4cK32]

If the carrier bearing is too long, would this stop it from closing the last 10mm?

* Sorry for the hijack....*

[Jay95R33]

You mean the thrust bearing??

I think you could tell by feeling the clutch throw out fork to see if it has a little bit of movement in it, or get a small tourch and have a look in the hole where the fork comes out...

But if the splines aren't lined up right between the input shaft and the clutch plate it will stop at around that 10mm mark before it goes the rest of the way.

The best way we found, was to use an input shaft like I said above, then get the box as close to the motor as you can (usually the 10mm mark !!), get someone behind the box pushing it forward, and get another person at the bell housing to twist it, then it'll eventually mate up and slot in.

Just make sure you keep the motor jacked up at the front, and try and get an even distance right around the box/motor. This will ensure that the box is at the same angle the motor is at.

Just take your time, cause it won't happen straight away (never does ), and could take an hour or so.

J

[Skyrine-Dave]

ok i know to use another input shaft for alignment.,.. but can someone explain how it works? i just cant get my head around it at the moment :S

[Bl4cK32]

well in the two plate clutch theres 4 plates - 2 metal and two ones with meat (the ones that wear) On the two that wear, they have grooves where the splines around the input shaft sit. U use a dummy shaft (or the 180b one) to make sure the splines on the two plates, as well as the two metal plates are all inline so the input shaft slides in.....in theory

[R33vit]

As well as lining up with the spigot in you fly wheel. this is where it would most likely be miss aligned

[Bl4cK32]

Is that the end of the input shaft going into the end of the crankshaft?

[browny]

yes.

Basically everything has to be concentric.

[Bl4cK32]

Ok i used a dummy shaft, aligned the plates and its still out, but now only 8mm or less. Does it mean the bearing carrier could be the wrong size? Basically the pin on the block that goes into the top of the gearbox is touching. It wont just go in!!!!

[rev210]

getting the gearbox off , the clutch and flywheel off and the clutch and flywheel back on is too easy.

Getting the gearbox back in the right angle is the killer. I spent 2 days trying to lift the gearbox into position by myself. Now I'm not sure it weighs 150kgs (probably about 50?) but, with only the clearence of axle stands in my shed it feels like 150kgs. I ended up getting my brother around to help with trolly jacks ------ 1 day & no luck

Then a mobile mechanic ------- no luck

I finally had to do what I should have paid to do in the first place and it cost me more.

It can be done of course, and GTRken happened to tell me he had a special peice of wood that gave the gearbox the right angle to go straight in. He did tell me this 'after' I gave up and had the thing back together.

It's all about the angle.

I use a peice of wood dowl wrapped in electrical tape as a multi fit clutch alignment tool, old backyard trick works mint.

[jnr32r]

isnt it a bit of a big task itself to get a 180b input shaft off the gearbox???

Ill prolly be doing this in the next month or two, but everyones scaring me about it. Ill be doing it with my ol man, what worries me is the height the car has to be at. My mate tells me if you dont have a hoist dont even bother. Ive done all 4 cars ive had (mind you 2 were FWD) and i really cant see how much more difficult a Skyline can be.

us are all a bunch of wooses !!! LOL (we'll see when my day comes)

[Jay95R33]

If you've done a few in the past then you'll be fine.

Like I said before, just take your time putting it back in, and make sure everything is lined up before you get frustrated. Put aside an hour or two JUST to get the box to mate up with the motor, and don't be suprised if it takes longer.

We were lucky cause we had the whole insides of a 180b gearbox in the garage, and they are only about 10kg's without the housing

The transmission tunnels on the skylines are pretty tight, and you'll notice that the 'bump' in the bell housing where the starter motor mounts hits on part of the transmission tunnel. It's all about getting the twist and angle right for it to go up and in.

I literally made sure the spacing arounf the bell housing and motor were all the same everywhere, then I laid under the box while someone else was pushing the gearbox forward with both feet while I was jiggling and twisting the gearbox. When it lines up it will just slip together, but you'll need someone at the back pushing it otherwise it won't slip in. Even more so if it's a pull type clutch !!!

Also, with the hydrulic lines for the 4WD, just undo the mounts/clamps to the lines and that will give you enough room and play to lay the box on the ground while you change the clutch. Saves a lot of time draining and refilling things.

J

[Mr GTS4]

this is how you do it...

[CrazyMan]

i changed my clutch (r32 gtst), and it wasnt that hard, but i DID get to use the hoist and stuff at work....

if you have a 3in dump or anything though, i suggest removing it before putting the box back in, as i found it much easier to do with it off...

and yeah, as for lining up the clutch, sometimes a 3/8 extension with an appropriatly sized socket can work as a clutch aligner, but the ideal tool is a dummy input shaft or a proper alighning tool....

my 2 cents