Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seriously Considering buying a GC8F or GC8G STI or a regular WRX Impreza 2001-2004, never really looked twice at Subaru before but im kind of over the skyline and 2 door coupe scene,

and from what i can tell WRX's are an awesome package of performance and practicality and the STI WRXs look the goods. Just wanting to know peoples opinion more so behind

the GC8 Impreza both STI and non STI (definitely Turbo models though). If you guys have any opinion and stories about this particular model of car please share.

This is the Subbie im talking about for those who dont know.

img_5096.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415321-moving-on-to-a-subaru-maybe/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

u will regret it i think,i was a die hard subaru fan for years until i did alot of research and discovered they arnt that great unless u are willing to spend alot of cash to improve alot of things.overall the sti model is much better than the wrx.the weak points of the wrx non sti model is:weak driveline (gearbox and diffs etc).the engines themselves on both models arnt real reliable and do struggle if ur wanting to run more power.they over heat easy and love blowing head gaskets.the improvements that alot of people do to the non sti models is replace it with sti components which arnt cheap.alll in all if u want a 4 door get a 4 door skyline.a much more reliable car,cheaper to modify,and much stronger all round.if u want 4 wheel drive buy a gtr.just my 2c

gearboxes are only weak if you like dump the clutch a lot. they are a lot better in the newer ones than the very early models.

if i was to get one it would be one of the second gen ones after they got rid of the bug eyes (2002 onwards), but i do still have a soft spot for a tidy first gen.

u will regret it i think,i was a die hard subaru fan for years until i did alot of research and discovered they arnt that great unless u are willing to spend alot of cash to improve alot of things.overall the sti model is much better than the wrx.the weak points of the wrx non sti model is:weak driveline (gearbox and diffs etc).the engines themselves on both models arnt real reliable and do struggle if ur wanting to run more power.they over heat easy and love blowing head gaskets.the improvements that alot of people do to the non sti models is replace it with sti components which arnt cheap.alll in all if u want a 4 door get a 4 door skyline.a much more reliable car,cheaper to modify,and much stronger all round.if u want 4 wheel drive buy a gtr.just my 2c

A lot of WRX non sti's are being advertised with STI driveline parts so makes sense the term 'glass gearbox' is popping up a lot.

Didnt know the EJ20 suffered from overheating and blowing gaskets, some guys are reporting 250-400,000 KM on them and still going strong i feel like it a massive grey area.

Looks like i might be leaning towards an STI if i go GC8. Atm Im on the fence about skylines, had a chat with a couple of mates one night after work and

most of them seem to be moving on to 4 door cars (Evo's, Foresters, XR6T, BMW M5's etc) but still retaining that performance we all like. Kind of opened

my eyes a bit and got me thinking whether i should be sticking to coupes when there are some excellent 4 door examples that offer the same thing.

I dont know if i want a 4 door skyline not really my taste having owned a coupe and feeling like i need a change, i figure if i really like skylines that much i will eventually

come back to own another.

have a R34 25GT ('98) and recently bought a '04 Forester XT with the EJ25 turbo

i find the RB motor so much more refined in terms of noise/lifters etc can't speak for all nissans but going from a R-chassis to a EJ-chassis (forester shares the basic chassis with the WRX - please correct me if im wrong) just the overall balance driving wise / interior finish / in-cabin noise the Skyline i think has it beat even though its 6 years older

the Subaru's strengths is its all-wheel drive (allbeit trumped by ATESSA) - this makes the car faster in all weather conditions as well as sticky to the road during wet conditions - the forester is also very utillitarian in its setup interms bootspace / various accessories / seats fold down etc - also as a stock standard package they are excellent to drive - they are tuned slightly higher than nissans from the factory iirc

previous owner also installed a adj blow of valve and a 3' turbo back exhaust with a muffler instead of a cannon - the noise when its on boost mixed with the induction noise is pretty much why i bought the car - it is a tad obnoxious which is why i rate it

as previously stated they don't tollerate abuse too well, but so long as your not launching it there are guys getting 3-4-500,000kms out of them over here and in the states

from what i've read the EJ20 is a more solid motor than the later EJ25 with the esp with the EJ207 STI having fully forged pistions where as the later model EJ257 STIs have semi-forged ones

if it was my money i'd go a GC8 Version 5 2-door STI or a Version 6 4-door STI - or if you're going modern a '06 GDB STI with the 6-speed gearbox are a treat - the key really is to try find one with a fastidious owner not some oink who's abused it

IMO they have so much more charisma over an EVO

pics because pics;

8013735159_af6d108d92_h-1.jpg

v5tr.jpg

5163150320_d0edda5059_b-1.jpg

DSC_0126.jpg

DSC_9948.jpg

DSC_9721.jpg

tumblr_mbr2oiEYDS1r3c7g6o1_1280.jpg

4402303707_cff1e8ba20_b.jpg

4403069272_e7fdeed0b1_o.jpg

Edited by squareznboxez

Nothing wrong with Rexes - I've owned them as my main daily for the last ten years. In fact I traded my R32 for a WRX and have never looked back.

The horror stories are true only if you abuse them. I tracked my 02 WRX in totally stock form and never had a problem. Try doing that with a GTR.

Evo's are another good option

Just be prepared to shop around for a nice clean unmolested one. I'd say the biggest problem with used WRX's (or skylines, evos etc) is the dickhead owners who abuse them and don't maintain them.

I've owned 3 subies over th years, a modded 03 sti, a heavily modded rs liberty and a stock b4 liberty, and I wouldn't buy another subie unless it was just to be a stockish fun daily. They have to many weak links, the gc8's have weak boxes, small driveshafts and small rear diff, the sti versions are still only 5 speed with altered ratios and the same r160 diff, the bugeye on versions are to heavy for 2.0 so I wouldn't bother, only the 05+ wrx's are worth buying due to the 2.5.

For the price of a decent sti you can get a very nice GTR, even then if your going to buy an sti your better of getting the 05+ which has dccd, but there still around the 25k mark.

The thing I found with subies is there very easy to get semi fast and decent handling for cheap on the street but once you start tracking or thrashing alot they just break, put on some sticky tyres and you'll start breaking boxes and shafts alot, and the cost of upgrading to a 6 speed in a gc8 or similar is just not worth it, to do it correctly you'll be looking at 4k+, then you have to factor in upgrading the rear diff etc.

There great cars but they really arn't built as well as skylines in terms of strength and outright potential, they'll be quicker 0-100 then a skyline in most cases but thats about it, plus understeer gets boring real quick, just stick with your skyline :yes:

Have you considered an evo?, I'd suggest taking 7-9 for a test drive it might change your mind but if you love the look of an STI then go for it

I have always liked the STI over the evolutions based on aesthetic attributes which you can say is superficial, some people like the looks of the

EVO and some the STI depends on taste, hence why im not really considering an EVO atm. But i have sat in a evo 8 and they are rockets on rails.

Edited by starwarz

All good reads and from what i gather the GC and GD are indeed weaker in the box and

drivelines then Evo's and GTR's, but thats if your droping the clutch and thrashing as some of

you have said.

It all depends on your goal for the car, if you wanna tear up the track or get more then 170awkw then avoid a normal wrx, go an evo or atleast an sti, you can get bugeye sti's for alot less the 20k now, same with evo's.

If its just a daily then really any wrx will do, engines/boxes are basically the same with only minor changes from 99 on, only major change was going to a 2.5 in the 06 on.

yes if you track them they will break, but so will skylines (oil starvation issues, and blown ceramic turbos).

i also wouldn't say the ATTESSA system is a better AWD system than the subaru system as they are very different. the ATTESSA system is a rwd system that can engage the front wheels when the rear wheels lose traction. the subaru system is a constant awd with 50/50 split (which makes for good slides on a wet skidpan). evo's are a more fwd biased awd.

180awkw is plenty for me........., im not looking at creating a monster. Though dont take

my word for that i might be given the mod bug. I went down to IS motorsport, with a friend to pick

up his brother S15 with a newly installed starter motor, and a silver GD with the IS Motorsports sticker was sitting in the

car park. Very immaculate Impreza, nothing crazy i should have asked for some info on the car/model while i was there but i didnt think

of it at the time :domokun:

evos and subs are built for rally.

I know there was a lot of fans back in the days when some time attack cars came out.

Never have made any records in no where.Just rally.

So if you want to rally then go for those evos and subs out there.

If not?

Go for a rwd.

way more fun to drive.

awd is boring.

evos and subs are built for rally.

I know there was a lot of fans back in the days when some time attack cars came out.

Never have made any records in no where.Just rally.

So if you want to rally then go for those evos and subs out there.

If not?

Go for a rwd.

way more fun to drive.

awd is boring.

lolwut? If you find AWD boring, you're not driving it hard enough.

lolwut? If you find AWD boring, you're not driving it hard enough.

indeed. only reason I sold my wagon was the cost of repairs. $4500 on a gearbox and $1k to do the water pump got a bit much.

Take it from me. My first performance car was a WRX (GDA) which I chose over the GC8 due to the better chassis. If I had my time again, I would've gone with an Evo 7-9.

WRX's have too many weak points and are too difficult to get power from.

I spent a fortune on mine and only netted 220kw at all four with 19psi of boost.

I decided to go WRX over Evo as the symmetrical AWD appealed to me for weight distribution. I didn't like the E-W mounting of the Evo.

Had my WRX for 2 years and hung out with the Evo Oz crew (Rexnet guys aren't as social). Had a heap of fun and found out just how much better the Evo is.

Normally I'd scoff at electronic aids but the Evo's AYC, ASC, ACD & S-AWC make it unbeatable in the twisties (which was what I was into at the time).

There appears to be more aftermarket support for the Evo too so upgrades are easier to find and cheaper to buy in comparison to the WRX.

Do some research on Evo Oz. I've learnt that the 5MT's are stronger than the 6MT's (opposite to WRX) and the AYC/ACD pump is a bitch to bleed!

I still have a soft spot for WRX's, must be that boxer note but probably wouldn't buy another.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...