Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have my mates r32 I'm selling for him as does not have the time spare to sell it.

I'll do dot points because that is way easier and straight to the point.

-THE GOOD-

-new respray

-133kms

-turbo

-auto (so the missues can drive it)

-17 inch japlish mesh wheels 70-80 percent tred

-3inch cat back exhaust

-comes with standed exhaust

-has a new pod filter

-front mount

-Gtr genuine alloy bonnet

-Gtr genuine front bumper and genuine Lip!

-Gtr genuine front Grill

-turbo rebuilt 4kms ago Zero shaft play!

-sparco boost gauge (need to reconnect )

-comes with 12 Months VIC REGO!! (no road worthy)

-comes with a alpine cd player

-Has Rare light up skyline rear light

-The Bad-

-the body is a bit rough and has some rust on one of the gaurds and a bit on the firewall

-starter motor is on the way out

-a bit of dodgy tint on the back window

-3inch exhaust has a few holes in it so it sounds a bit tinny

-Summary-

The Skyline is great to drive has plenty of power for a rb20det,

Very easy to park great turning circle and very comfy to sit in

It desperately needs a new loving home it's been neglected for over a year sitting outside a garage in the weather runs perfect please come have a drive and check it out! No time wasters!!

-Price-

He's looking for $$5000ono with 12 months reg

Please pm for more info I will get photos up asap

Thanks matt,

Just needs some bad tlc

FORGOT TO ADD ITS IN VICTORA AUSTRALIA

will add pics soon as i can get a few snaps! please pm me or shoot me a text 0402948881 if your after info

heres the pics

as promised.

keep in mind that this car has been sitting for over 6 months just needs a bit of TLC! :) it has a few rough spots but overall its a great skyline to drive!

also has had the ac re-gassed but just carnt get it to come on been told its a sensor inside the car that wont let it turn on

post-53831-0-93089800-1355900563_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-89009900-1355900590_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-89297100-1355900615_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-69282100-1355900640_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-00574500-1355900665_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-47034000-1355900691_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-08122900-1355900725_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-28841700-1355900750_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-70347700-1355900777_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-27915500-1355900807_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-19970500-1355901225_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-37659200-1355901248_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-61926400-1355901272_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-50565900-1355901292_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-02834600-1355901316_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-80310300-1355901336_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-45090000-1355901358_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-92169700-1355901380_thumb.jpg

post-53831-0-61458900-1355901406_thumb.jpg

sorry guys it i have just been informed i have put a mistake the r32 will come with 2months reg till feb at 4.5k sorry for that.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...