Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have a had a set of 34 GTR wheels that are waiting to be put on my 34GTT

I think if memory serves, the wheels are 18x9 +30?

I'm looking at getting a really decent set of tyres, possibly something like the pirelli p zero's or equivalent.

All I'm really after is just to get the correct tyres for the rims and my car.

I have been looking for sometime at getting 265/35/18's all round, but after a bit of googling, it looks like they would be fine for the rear, but would need a different fitment for the front?

If you guys could offer a bit of assistance with my situation, that'd be great.

Cheers,

Jacob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416198-tyres-for-my-34/
Share on other sites

245s would be ideal

Damo, what are you doing mate? Bad advice is bad.

What tyre profile would you run on an R34 GT-T with a 245 section width? 245/35 is too short and 245/40 too tall. If you really want something fat on the back run 225/40R18 on the front and 255/35R18 on the rear, otherwise a good quality 225/40R18 will be up to the job on a Skyline without ridiculous power.

OP also stated that he is looking at getting decent tyres, if he opts for a Toyo Proxes R1R (which I can't reccomend enough), Yoki Advan AD08 or similar these will have a wide contact patch for their respective sizes i.e a 255/35R18 R1R is usually as wide as a mid-range 265/35R18.

Edited by Hank Scorpio
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416198-tyres-for-my-34/#findComment-6681743
Share on other sites

255's look nice and beafy at the rear, especially with the +30 offset. Keep with 225's or 235's at the front I reckon, you don't want too much resistance when turning your wheel, it can get annoying! My ones are 40 at the front and 35's at the rear, 18's all round, they fit nice and snug

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416198-tyres-for-my-34/#findComment-6684662
Share on other sites

Either 225 40 18( will give it a slight stretch) or 235 40 18( better suited for performance)

And a 245 40 18 or 255 35 18 rear. Both will work nice on the rear on the 9". 265 rear you would want a 235 40 18 front.

And yes going too wide on the front will cause tram lining which does get VERY annoying!

Depends on what tyres you are looking to fit on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416198-tyres-for-my-34/#findComment-6686267
Share on other sites

I agree with Ali.

225/40/18 on the front, and a 255/35-40/18 on the rear.

For tyre selection, it comes down to the way you drive. Do you track it often? Do you daily it? Is it a weekend only car? Do you carry big loads? Would you prefer grip or longevity? How much did you want to spend?

There is a lot of factors to take into consideration when picking he right tyre for YOU, not just the right tyre in general.

Cheers,

Shazza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416198-tyres-for-my-34/#findComment-6686281
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...