Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey here is one of the clips of my dr30 @ sandown on sunday the 23rd a very hot day so only did 1 or two hot laps per session this clip was making a small mistake out of the final turn but i thought it looked good on camera and felt like sharing

the car performed really well..

th_MVI_0426_zpsa942a0ea.jpg

my first video upload hope it works

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416231-track-day-dr30-clip/
Share on other sites

have you had temp issues with your fj? cause in general mines been really good it hardly gets much past 60-70 deg at the thermostat on hot days (just street) sunday was 30+ 36max i think and it was creeping toward 100 at thermo after hotlaps but cooled back to 80-85 after a cool down lap..

i have got a VN alloy radiator fitted plus using water wetter and a good large thermo fan + i cleaned it all out in preperation for the heat

ill be fitting an oil cooler before the next time out though regardless of the heat as i want to do many more track days in it

Yea thats pretty good.as long as it cools down !

When I had a fj (like 8 years ago) :( it got hot once and popped the head. I had to source a new head for it it was that gone. Only had stock gauge

Put the head on and bottom end went.

That's when I went Rb.

Water wetter is good stuff.

Oil cooler drops temps heaps and a must if u going to Kane it.

Btw car sounds mad. I want a fj

Sorry for the hi-jack but while on the subject of temp issues... I've got some issues. Overheated on shakedown drive after dyno tune up an angry hill overflow spewed almost 1/2 a litre stock gauge around 2/3's..

Got thermo fan and temp gauge checked out and apparently sweet. Was told that my rad is prob 50% blocked so removed aircon condesor. Now takes ages to get up operating temp by then heatsoak sets in on the stock intercooler (10.5psi). Gauge is 1/2 way in traffic.

I want to rig the standard secondary fan to kick in with the primary and a bit earlier. Is the thermostat located on the top tank?

Help appreciated is my daily atm just ordered an adaptronic and cactus engine is the last thing I need.

how hot did you get it though ydr? 100deg under pressure so i understand it is ok.. it was good at cooling it self back to the 80s..

ps d-limo thermostat is in the housing on the engine that the top radiator hose attaches too

Yea 100 deg is ok. Wouldn't want it higher thou. When I'm drifting it will sit around 90-100.

Like u said but depends on the day I prefer winter skids for that reason.

I cooked my fj hard dude Off the clock. Stock gauge.

Young and dumb ( dumber lol) was on the brake for ages looked down and yea she was cooking.

D-limo. Get a eBay r32 alloy rad. Cheap dude. Don't bother w the fj rad.

Standard fj thermo s arent the greatest so I'd upgrade them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...