Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just this week noticed that when my R33 GTS-T hits boost (only 10 psi) at around 3000rpm in 4th or 5th gear (under moderate to heavy throttle) that the revs initially rise quickly (without as much thrust!) and then dip slightly before continuing to boost OK...

Could this be the clutch slipping???

It feels a lot like it, but I've only ever blown clutches (admittedly in FWD cars) in lower gears and usually when revs are high!!!

Is it the torque that causes the clutch to slip??? It doesn't slip and dip in any lower gears!!!

Could it be a boost pressure issue??? I have a basic bleed valve installed. I can't think why this would cause this but I'm certainly no mechanic!!!

IDEAS??? I already did some searches and came up empty!!!

Ta!

iijj

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41766-clutch-in-4th-and-5th/
Share on other sites

I have just this week noticed that when my R33 GTS-T hits boost (only 10 psi) at around 3000rpm in 4th or 5th gear (under moderate to heavy throttle) that the revs initially rise quickly (without as much thrust!) and then dip slightly before continuing to boost OK...  

Could this be the clutch slipping???

It feels a lot like it, but I've only ever blown clutches (admittedly in FWD cars) in lower gears and usually when revs are high!!!

Is it the torque that causes the clutch to slip???  It doesn't slip and dip in any lower gears!!!

Could it be a boost pressure issue???  I have a basic bleed valve installed.  I can't think why this would cause this but I'm certainly no mechanic!!!

IDEAS???  I already did some searches and came up empty!!!

Ta!

iijj

I think u need a new clutch. Ur case is just like wat had happened to me before. Starts to slip only at high speed (4th n 5th gear).

Bummmmmmmer........

So, anyone know a decent place to price a clutch up here in Brissie???

I don't think I can afford a heavy duty clutch if they're $900 fitted!!!

How much do the standard clutches go for, including fitting, and ...

where should I get one???

I hardly ever drop the clutch in first, but I don't want it to blow again inside a couple of years either. Would I be better with a heavy duty item??? I'm only producing around 140KW atw...

Suggestions...

iijj

PS Hey, how long, if I nurse it somewhat, until it will give up altogether???

Iijj , quote for me was 350 for standard clutch and 550 for heavy duty. twin plates go up and up from there... i plan on making more than 200RWKW so a heavy duty is rated to the 300 rwkw range. If i wanted to make over 300 RWKW (read many $$$$$) I'd have gone for a twin or Triple plate item.

Personally get the best you can afford, cause there's nothing worse than making more power and the stock car parts can't handle it ;)..... I guess that's half the fun tho...:D

Loz

Thanks guys...

I'm waiting for a quote tomorrow. From what ur saying, I can count on b/w $600 and $900, depending on standard or heavy duty (and fitting)!?! Is that right???

If anyone else knows of a good shop in Bris North, speak up!!!

Thanks!!!

iijj

Try x-clutches they have been in Zoom magazine, they are in QLD and at underwood somewhere.

They have stock, heavy duty twin plates tripple plates, they are made here in Australia using stuff they don't tell anyone.

In Zoom they had a silvia or skyline doing around 400-500HP, and ask x-clutches about what to get and they said get our special coated stock plate and it'll handle it.

Anyway sus them out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...