Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts Vs Z32 Alloy Front Knuckle

craigy32
 Share

Recommended Posts

craigy32 Collaborator

craigy32

Posted
Posted

soooo I've been searching for an answer to this for a little while... I'm putting in z32 alloy knuckles into my r32 gtst with a custom upper control arm etc.. the knuckle geometry looks identical- all measurements including king pin angle, steering arm length and ackerman, etc etc EXCEPT for one thing- the hub on the z32 knuckle is mounted about 15mm more forward than the r32 one..

my question is- how will this affect handling given all the alignment settings are the same? I'm kinda stumped! I've added a couple of pictures to help explain..

Thank you!

post-23739-0-43256100-1358231175_thumb.jpg

post-23739-0-23383200-1358231186_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417784-r32-gts-vs-z32-alloy-front-knuckle/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Well, my only thought, without having to engage my brain hard enough to think about what it will do to various angles and so on, is that you will probably end up scrubbing the tyre on the inner guard liner if you also wind on any reasonable amount of caster. This because the wheels will move forward in the wells by both actions (more caster and your knuckle changes). I already have that problem with 235s on 8s just with caster adjustment wound up to max on some Tein radius rods.

craigy32 Collaborator

craigy32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah that may be a problem! haha I am making a custom upper control arm though so i can hopefully give it more caster that way and it will also put the wheel further back as well..

cheers for the reply :)

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted (edited)

It may make it more twitchy too

If it was a bike you would really notice it,

You know how on a bike the fork angle and offset of the hub control the feel of the steering?

Well im thinking its going to have some of that effect too.

So what is the difference in strut angle from the z32?

Also that longer distance from the hub means the wheel has more leverage to work against the steering, and the steering has more work/load to steer.

Maybe a z32 rack would fix it?

You must be doing this for drifting?

Ps: i understand bike suspension but not cars.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Bene there and tried it. Spent almost 2 months waiting for it all to be trial fitted and played with and was a no goer due to steering arms/tue road end locations all being screwed up with horrible results in bump steer. The thing is barely lighter so just scrapped the idea of having allow hubs all round :(

craigy32 Collaborator

craigy32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It may make it more twitchy too

If it was a bike you would really notice it,

You know how on a bike the fork angle and offset of the hub control the feel of the steering?

Well im thinking its going to have some of that effect too.

So what is the difference in strut angle from the z32?

Also that longer distance from the hub means the wheel has more leverage to work against the steering, and the steering has more work/load to steer.

Maybe a z32 rack would fix it?

You must be doing this for drifting?

Ps: i understand bike suspension but not cars.

cheers for the reply :) offsetting the hub further forward actually decreases the caster offset, but does this increase the scrub in some way? I'm not entirely sure..

z32 factory caster angle is set at 12-13 degrees and I know the r32 is alot less.. maybe 6? so I'm guessing they changed the hub offset to possibly lighten the steering? or do i have it wrong...

mine was 8.5 with 3.5 degrees of camber.. the silly upper arm on a factory 32 is on an angle so changing the length changes both the caster and camber..

hmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...