Jump to content
SAU Community

Splitters/lips For The Sport Bumper?

Dreadnought
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

SMOKEYV35 Mentor

SMOKEYV35

Posted
Posted

^^^ well that is a NISMO front bar .... but the lip doesn't jut out anywhere near as much as the normal NISMO lip does.

Correct - the nismo front bar is one single piece - replaces the OEM front bar completely.

I don't know if it sits lower than OEM + nismo lip.

I've got both so can take a measurement if you want?

SMOKEYV35 Mentor

SMOKEYV35

Posted
Posted

Like most nismo stuff, the differnces are subtle, but side by side they are two very different shapes.

The nismo bar is much squarer - it almost drops vertically towards the ground on all sides. It is certainly one piece. The line that looks like the point that the lower lip section is joining the front bar is a moulding line only.

  • 1 year later...
FlyingEL Rising Star

FlyingEL

Posted
Posted (edited)

It is the NISMO front bar. Nismo actually don't make the lip only. I bought my car with the NISMO body kit, that's with the side skirting and wing as well. But that doesn't means they are OEM. BTW the NISMO kit are in fiberglass too. They will drop the car 2" comparing to the OEM bar.

post-53067-0-07022100-1408259031_thumb.jpg

Edited by FlyingEL
Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

Haha funny this topic should come back up. I ended up biting the bullet and bringing in 4 urethane Nismo copy front bars in late 2013 (an absolute nightmare of an experience, and significantly more costly than I was anticipating).

I have one on my car, have sold 2, and have one currently for sale. And yes, as you mention FlyingEL, the genuine Nismo front bars are fibreglass and crack/shatter if you bend/hit them too hard. Mine is urethane, which can literally flex 180 degrees back on itself and just pops back into shape.

So, I still have one sitting here for sale :whistling:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433400-f-s-v35-coupe-urethane-nismo-style-front-bumper-bars/#entry7064468

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...