Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Up for sale is my 1996 nissan skyline series 2 r33 gts-t in KR4 silver located in the ACT. It Currently has 112,xxxkms on the clock and the condition of the interior seems to indicate that is pretty accurate, but who ever really knows. It is registered until auguts 2013 and Overall the car is in great condition, putting out 248rwkw on 18psi tuned by DVS Jez. It has few little stone chips etc on the front bar but this is to be expected with a car this age. I have owned the car for about 2 years and it was practically stock when i bought it. All the mods are less than a year old (approx 5000km). The engine bay still looks stock as a rock except for the strut brace and the car is at a reasonable height so there is no trouble with the police (i have never been pulled over besides RBT’s)

The only issue i can think of is the spigot bush wasn’t replaced (rookie mistake) when the clutch was done and it can be a little noisy on downshift if you don’t rev match.

It is serviced every 6 months or 5000km with motul 10w40 synthetic oil and is currently running redline diff and transmission oil. Always run on 98 petrol.

Current mod list:

Ecutalk consult port display

Nistuned z32 ecu

Greddy profec b ebc

Hypergear r34 hi flowed turbo

JJR bellmouth SS dump/frontpipe

Fujitsubo catback exhaust (nice and quiet)

80mm metal turbo intake pipe (made by scottynm35)

Z32 Maf sensor w/tomei plug

Yellowjacket coilpacks

Apexi pod filter

Pod filter enclosure

Blitz turnflow FMIC (painted black)

Nismo 555cc injectors

Nismo intank fuel pump (wired for alternator voltage through a relay)

Jim berry full monty carbotic clutch

BC racing br coilovers

Fr/r whiteline adjustable sway bars

Whiteline subframe pineapples

Nismo front strut brace w/ master cylinder stopper

Rear strut brace

Tomei hicas lock kit (just needs the shims put in)

DBA 4000 slotted rotors front and rear

QFM hpx brake pads front and rear

17” inch rims (bit of gutter rash on the fronts)

Federal 595ss tyres

R33 gtr front and rears seats (no rips/tears, they are immaculate)

Razo gear knob

Genuine Nissan floormats

Sony head deck with 3.5mm aux cable port, Pioneer rear speakers, amp and 10” sub

Im sure i have probably forgotten 1 or 2 things, but this is the main work done.

I have most of the stock parts such as sway bars, air box/snorkel, struts, turbo heatshield, ecu , intercooler, injectors, rotors, seats, intake pipe, fuel pump, dump pipe whic you are more than welcome to have with the car if you wish to convert back to stock or whatever.

I also have a genuine Nissan kr4 r33 gtr spoiler that can go with the car if its not sold beforehand.

Pics will be up once i give it a wash and take some photos (when the weather cools down). Can get some sooner if you are serious.

Asking price is $12,500.

Any questions let me know.

Edited by Mitcho_7
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418074-act-kr4-silver-s2-r33-gtst-248rwkw/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...