Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

just after some info as i searched and gave the rb20 manual a scan.

what pressure readings should i be getting on the coolant system?

i'm using the12mm hoses up top near the intake manifold with a t-piece barb on a pressure gauge and my readings are when car is cold running.... 0 psi and 13psi when hot 70-80c unless somehow said lines are no good for readings to be taken.

blew a heater hose so i replaced hoses and a thermostat with a rb25 unit and is there ment to be a lil bit of black rubber circle ring on it near the opening( tried to see if i could remove it but seemed pretty solid so left it) as i usually just run rb30 thermostats and they dont have this ?

i know something is up as car is overheating 80c while idling, top hoses are hot and bottom are cold/normal so must be water pump or newly installed thermostat

thanks :)

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418093-water-pump-pressure-readings/
Share on other sites

That pressure seems about right, and the 80c temps are pretty good too. What is the issue?

It's a good idea to test thermostats before you use them, dunk it in hot water and see what temp it opens...

really zero pressure when cold?

was about to start on the water pump but figured i'd confirm on pressure and the rubber ring on the new rb25 thermostat before i go to the effort

^^^^ it takes me a decent drive to get the car up to 75 normally...... and these temps are just sitting in the driveway raising quickly

i know something is up as car is overheating 80c while idling, top hoses are hot and bottom are cold/normal so must be water pump or newly installed thermostat

EDIT it doesn't stop at 80C , turned it of at 86 as it was getting abnormally hot

thanks :)

Edited by Dan_J

the standard thermostat is set to open at 82 degrees. anything up to about 90, or even 95 at worst case scenario is normal on a really hot day for the original cooling system, as it gets less effecient as it gets older and gets build up in the radiator. if you had a brand new thermostat and radiator then 82 to 85 degrees is normal.

Standard water pump creates some flow not pressure. The pressure comes from the heat making the coolant want to expand. So at ambient temp it should have no pressure, when at operating temp should have whatever your radiator cap is rated at. They are 0.9bar from memory so 13 psi does sound right.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
    • thanks GTSboy. My confusion at the moment is i am trying to locate the ignition, ECU battery power and the ECU negative The closest thing i can find is the for the S15 on Page 8 of the Wiring Specialties web page https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENQnZ6STMxVmVNd1E/view?resourcekey=0-eZ4nNRwRoqa1qvKlWWHm8A I cannot find the same diagram for the R33 RB25DET Series 2 dash plug pin out.... Do you know what the Pins? or know where i can find the same pinout diagram for the RB dash plug? Thanks for the advice on the box... i like a 6 speed so might be on the lookout or the box now.. a topic of discussion for another post...
    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
×
×
  • Create New...