Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i know this has been covered a hundred times it looks like time for me to renew my comprehensive.

Is anyone here insured with NRMA? they are giving me bullshit excuse on how everyone's premiums are going up this year the damn premium has gone up by $300 (no accident history) and despite the fact that i have turned 25, they also dropped the agree'd value by $5000 which is ridiculous.

Even stranger is when i tried to get a quote from AAMI they told me they don't insure imports when the previous owner of my car was with AMMI!! WTH...

When i told them the previous owner was insured by them, they told me someone must have made a mistake because it shouldn't have been insured.

What's everyone else with? any recommend any good insurance companies?

edit: typo

Edited by Marshan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418495-time-for-insurance/
Share on other sites

maybe the previous owner meant "JUST CARS", it's part of AAMI did u know...

as for getting your premiums down...have you tried listing your mum or dad as primary driver and you as a secondary....???

Nope they were insured with AAMI after i purchased they even sent me a letter to renew my comprehensive...which i don't have anymore.

Also i am listed as secondary driver and my parents are primary.

No idea if they were just bullshitting me saying everyone's premiums are going up by couple of hundred this year, due to large amount of claims made in 2012.

Edited by Marshan

I am with NRMA and they play silly buggers with me every year my insurance is due, last year was no exception with them wanting allmost 2k!!!!

fortunately I was able to get them to beat a quote by AI insurance which brought my price down to a much better $800

Still given when I 1st got the car and insured it 4 and and a bit years ago for 30k they wanted $1500

I'm insured with NRMA.. I paid just under $800 per year with glass cover.

NRMA usually beat any competitor quote by 10%.. so search around and find something cheap and take it back to them..

AAMI don't do imports.. not sure how the previous owner managed to get them to insure it.. I even asked them when I got my V35 as my previous car was insured with them.

Suncorp do the V36, but not the V35.

I'm 21, lost licence 2 years ago for speeding, insured with RACQ for $2200 a year and an agreed value of $26k..i pay $184 a month because it's a big whack of money to pay at once. Shouldn't have lost my licence years ago it's killed me, even though i was doing 70 in a 60 zone twice within a week apart and lost it.

I'm with NRMA - QLD and i havent heard anything about the rise :O Should I be worried? I'm already paying like 1600 a year.

Yeah i'm paying around 1600 but this year despite the fact i turned 25 they are looking at just a bit over 2k!!

A few of my mates got theirs renewed and didn't get a rise. I get a feeling they're playing games.

im with just car claimed mid December and car went in second week of Jan. it was a car park bump not my fault. didn't have to pay an excess even though the other bloke wasn't insured. im happy with them. and pay about 1400 at 28

im with just car claimed mid December and car went in second week of Jan. it was a car park bump not my fault. didn't have to pay an excess even though the other bloke wasn't insured. im happy with them. and pay about 1400 at 28

Did they drop the premium the year after if you don't have an accident?

Because one of my mates has his WRX'S insured with Justcars and paid 1800 for the first year. And because he didn't have any accidents the following year his premium went down to just 1k. That seems pretty reasonable if they do that he whole reward you for being a safe driver incentive.

Your premium usually drops as your driver rating increases. That's the whole rating one thing.

At rating 1, you're supposed to be a great driver that never has any issues. Less risk for them. This is usually calculated on driving history. So if you haven't had any incidents in 6? years, then you're at that level and your premium probably won't drop any further. If you start on a level 3, then move to a level 2, your premium would drop a bit.

  • 1 month later...

My previous NRMA cost was $1300 for $30k agreed or something, i got the renewal and its $2200... wtf

Just car is $1257 @ value of $20950 and when doing the same value with NRMA its $2030... they dont do 10% now so they can suck it. Shanons want $2100 for $30k and $2200 for $35k

Will try RACQ, but who with NRMA has V35 and didnt get increase ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...