Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,, i have a 1990 r32 gtr, purchased with most of mods done by previous owner. when i brought the car i was told it was running 290atwkw on 17psi, with mods, which include, r34 gtr N1 turbos, hks cam gears, sard 800cc fuel rail, injectors to suit, walbro fuel pump, apexi pods, hks to intercooler plumbing and blow off valves, stock intercooler, ally radiator, has a full stainless apexi exhaust, and that all i can think of from memory.

i recently had the car in for some other work,minor stuff. but also got the car tuned to run e85, it came back running 294.9atwkw, at around 23psi

i qustioned the previous owner and he swears black and blue that it made 290kw when he owned it.

is this an average amount of power for mods and e85,

or is there something wrong with the car where its lost power, but ifso i thought the tuner would be able to pick up on this?

any help or thoughts would be great cheers. :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418826-right-power-for-mods/
Share on other sites

hey sorry forget to add, it was tuned at the same place. but when i got it tuned on e85 it was in rwd as im having problems with front drivshaft. i did ask them to put fuse in for tune,,, but they didnt lol. when it was tuned the first time with previous owner it was in 4wd. both on same dyno from same place. im just abit confused..

no i didnt, because i just thought the previous owner must have bullshitted me. but i just spoke to im and he swears it made 290kw, im waiting on a pic of dyno slip. not sure anout injectors being maxed it has sard 800cc, didnt think they would be?

E85 is not a promised top end power increase, there are factors involved.

I bet you are not running 23psi @ 8000rpm, -7s (R34 N1s) and -9s (GT-SS) in just about every graph I have seen, fall over above 7000rpm to around 18psi by 8000rpm give/take as they are simply small turbos. Hence why they are so responsive.

The only user that's claimed a good 40rwkw gain (with 5-6psi), hasn't come close to running a MPH that remotely backs that up, jury is still out on that one :)

Splitting hairs - You'd probably expect to be around 300-320rwkw, but i say near enough - and check the midrange. That's where you should be looking on -7s/-9s

thanks for your input.. the dyno graph i have really doesnt show much, its a real basic graph. not really happy with that either, im more than happy with the power it has. just was confused abit and wasnt sure if the car could have lost power somewhere along the line, cheers

:yes:

You could check the exhaust for a restriction, make sure it doesn't have any in-built restrictors (lots of Jap exhausts have 2.5" restrictors before mufflers, internally).

Otherwise try get the old graph and the new one overlaid. That'd give you a good idea as well.

But definately get a boost read out, i would be surprised if there is 23psi above 7500rpm

Ah and have a look @ that - 18psi in the top end :merli:

Although it was never running 23psi mate - It only gets to 20psi and immediately falls. It should hold 20psi a bit longer before it falls over IMO. Which would give you a meatier mid range.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...