Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so big news laurels tuned and going after a very expensive few weeks ended up throwing out the ems stinger shit edu and got a new haltech platinum pro after having to stuff around with the loom and cas as was all up the shit from the ems (NEVER BUY ONE) got the car to start and the tuner over to load a quick base map in so i could drive it to the dyno the next day few hours later it was done turns out i have a stock fuel pump not a walbro like i thought shame but that held me back on the dyno and tuner had to set the limiter to 6500 as it was starting to lean out over that so ended up with 260kw lot less then i was expecting but will be good to actually get a hang of the car as its still super quick and I've never had anything with that much power before and plan on putting better pump and injectors in it in a few months been going through the hassle of getting it rego passed few hassles but will hopfully have it sorted soon

null_zps2a642773.jpg

null_zps4aca0f0c.jpg

null_zpsec53349d.jpg

Was down in Tas for holidays, saw your car (i think) at the bridgestone, looks awesome. Loving the rims on the rear!

Yeah man that would of been mine thanks the wheels on the back I borrowed from a mate had semis on wouldn't believe the amount of grip they give you :)

  • 3 weeks later...

well spent the weekend driving the laurel around regoed and tuned for the first time and had the best time went out with a few friends for a drive friday night car went great beside speedo randomly stopping later find out the cable snapped just after the sender that sucked done few foot on coz straya!!! bit sad on the diff cutting one some times but a locked diff will be going in asap ready for power cruise also had to put a 10mm exstended clutch slave pin in as the clutch wasn't engagging all the way solved that so from now and power cruise actually have to learn to skid the car this will be fun

1450720_659152817470002_1104679501_n.jpg

1393698_659154574136493_831584056_n.jpg

its not to bad being that there about 3mm gap between guard and tyre in the back I'm running 2 degrees in the back and 3 in the front the back has been lipped only and the front has been lipped and the top rail that always cuts the centre of the tyre in the front I've rolled over flat so it won't cut and also acts as a cover for the wiring loom

na you'll be sweet!

just remember if your gonna go low cut and bash the lip in the front so you don't cut your tyre!! :)

Edited by Samgrainger32
  • 3 weeks later...

cars been going awesome locked diff is in power cruise is entered and can't wait 25th 26th of jan will be the best weekend for this car had a play with my new gopro and suction caps suck keeps going loose and falls down and if got as hero 3 black and after i got home to watch some of the footage it was shit sound was terrible and video was not the best after doing bit more reading i trend the hd down to 720p see how that works anyone else used one and know what settings are best for outside of a car?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...