Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Got my engine rebuilt forged internals etc standard head just with 256 cams

Cranked the engine to build oil pressure, cranked it for like 5secs got 80psi pressure, started the car up and straight away lifters started tapping off its head,

Before anyone says take it to engine builder, I will on Monday when he open but been weekend Ill like to try work out what's wrong with it,

Nitto oil pump, still running VCt, blocked middle, 1.5m rear restritors,

Only thing I'm thinking is engine builder didnt do cleanances right? But I highly doubt it,

Bad lifters? How can I tell?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419630-urgent-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Hydraulic lifters sorry,

Thought that as well, we had it at normal temps, (half way) took it just for short drive under 3000rpms and still ticking,

It seems to rev slow like it revs and the come down revs is slightly sorry

I was so nervous to start it as I have had so many issues in regards to work that was done on it, I didn't wanna start it... But just from

How loud they are and all the time doing it, I didn't wanna risk driving it and causing more damage, but yes they have been out of the motor for about 7months dry,

If its a fresh build you shouldn't be idling it or taking it on a light/brief drive.

You should be seating the rings or you'll stuff the build entirely. Tow it to the builder/dyno Monday and don't keep starting it now. All you should do on a fresh build is let it run for a couple mins just so you find any potential water/oil/air leaks etc.

yeah fair things i wanna check like cam cover just to make sure its not hitting it was late yesterday arvo 5pm and once i heard the noise i didnt want anything to do with it for the day was a let down she packed up closed the shop lol

Was the previous engine blow up a spun bearing by any chance??

It's so common this happens when a small bearing particle blocks the head oil feed from the previous blow up and you end up with stuff all oil to the head.

It's bloody hard to have the galleries cleaned out perfectly unless the original restrictors are removed.

A lot of engines I've seen built by various Motorsport teams like the supercars have external feeds to the cylinder head with inline filters to prevent this happening.

Hole bottom end was destroyed in the old motor, started again with block and crank, only think that didnt change was the head, but engine builder knew what happen with old motor and I told him to wash the head and he said he would do that,

Only thing that was used from the spun bearing motor was the head, lifters and cams? Could these of been f**ked from the old motor? I asked the engine builder to check everything to make sure it was all good to go back in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...