Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright so last Friday i had my brand new CD009 transmission (06-07), SS clutch lines, new pivot ball, new throw out bearing, new rear main seal, Southbend clutch & flywheel installed. Along with this i put brand new Amsoil 75w90 gl4 gearbox oil, and Penrite SIN 600 brake/clutch fluid.

Now for the issue-

When i drove the car home from my mate/shop owner i noticed that when the clutch is engaged whilst driving and changing gears, there is a sort of rubbing or gurgle noise. It is very hard to explain but if you can sort of imagine the clutch spinning and then having something solid behind it rubbing against it. Now when the clutch is engaged but the car is still, there is no noticeable noises that are the same as the one i hear while driving. Also when i downshift and rev match, the noise gets louder since i am reving the motor while the clutch is engaged then releasing when i reach the same RPM.

Before anyone says flywheel chatter it's not that, the new flywheel is only a little bit lighter than the factory dual mass flywheel and makes the same normal chatter i always here when accelerating from a stop.

I have been searching the internet like crazy and asking mates that have a lot of experience with cars and no one seems to be able to give me a definite answer without obviously driving the car.

Some people are saying that it's normal for a copper mix clutch and that there is a "bed in period" of around 500-1000km, others are saying to flog the car do skids and see what happens lol.

I got in touch with Coz from ConceptZperformance in the US who supplied me the parts. I explained the problem to him and he basically said that he's never heard of this happening before with the Southbend setup and he seems to think it's got something to do with the installation of the parts. But the bloke that did it has a great deal of knowledge and says he didn't come across any hurdles when installing everything and he can't understand the problem. He's just said to drive it for around 500-1000km or until the noise stops, then take it back to him and he'll check it out.

I know this is a huge thread but it's annoying me a little bit, i have driven probably 300km since then and have not noticed the noise getting quieter at all. If anyone has any actual knowledge on copper mix clutches or have a clue what the problem could be, please share your knowledge and help me out.

Thanks!

Anyone have some sort of input? I'm getting it looked at again this Sunday, texted the bloke that did it saying i don't think it's going to improve and he's happy to check it out for me. Also last night driving home i got a strange shudder through the gearknob but only while coming to a stop going from 3rd to 2nd gear then it stopped. Was weird.. didn't happen this morning though coming to work.

I used a brand that was recommended in the DIY servicing section on here-

Clutch fluid:

Brand: Penrite SIN 600, Motul RBF 600

But as i said, the clutch engages and dissengages with no noticeable noises and have no problems changing gears. I was just speaking with another mate, he thinks it could be something to do with greasy hands while bolting in the flywheel and clutch, and possibly the rust-proof seal on the face of the clutch and flywheel have not been removed?

Far as I can see your options are

1) keep driving on it, clock up the 1000km's using the bedding in technique - see if it stops.

2) if that doesn't work, drain fluid, replace with recommended CVT fluid - see if it stops

3) if that doesn't work - drain fluid again, keep it in a container. Drop box and investigate - see if it stops.

4) if that doesn't work - clutch dump time*. Got a video of me doing a 1st to 2nd* gear burnout if you want guidance.

*SMOKEYV35 does not recommend or condone these activities in real life.

Thanks Mat,

Well i have the car going in on Sunday again, everything has been installed correctly i have been quizzing my mate that did it to try and rule anything out that may be incorrect but it all seems to add up.

Haha i'm not too confident that will fix anything, i don't think that's a good idea :P

But if we have no luck at all this Sunday, i guess the first thing would be to do is change the clutch fluid

So there is perhaps something different between the boxes? You sorted out the pivot bolt already, right? Could it still be the wrong length?

Have you compared the size of the input shafts? Was the pilot bushing lubricated/replaced? Perhaps the throwout bearing is faulty? All these are things than need to be checked while it's on the hoist. What makes noise is slowly wearing so you should keep an eye out for metal flakes etc. It should be fairly obvious I imagine.

So there is perhaps something different between the boxes? You sorted out the pivot bolt already, right? Could it still be the wrong length?

Have you compared the size of the input shafts? Was the pilot bushing lubricated/replaced? Perhaps the throwout bearing is faulty? All these are things than need to be checked while it's on the hoist. What makes noise is slowly wearing so you should keep an eye out for metal flakes etc. It should be fairly obvious I imagine.

Well, my 03 comes with a small pivot ball. But the 04-07 came with a longer pivot ball. The box was originally installed with the new pivot ball, which is too long, everything was then bolted back up but the clutch couldn't be adjusted because of that so the old pivot ball was put back in. It was not faulty at all, i made sure my mate checked. Brand new throw out bearing so i'm not sure how that would be possible. I will see if there's any difference between input shafts too but i was under the impression by many individual and Coz himself that this CD009 gearbox is a direct replacement of the CD001 the only difference is pivot ball. Everything else should just bolt straight up and have no issues. Car is going back on the hoist this Sunday so we'll see i guess.

Scotty-

i asked the questions that you asked me, to the bloke that fitted it. This exactly what he replied with-

"yeah pilot bush was replaced, and lubed by oil under pressure, til it leaks out of the bush. Didn't check shafts, but it won't be different, that's a common size on all nissans, my SR20 clutch tool fits perfect into your clutch"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...