Jump to content
SAU Community

Braking Problems After The Track

Spence_R32
 Share

Recommended Posts

Spence_R32 Enthusiast

Spence_R32

Posted
Posted

So i did my first track day yesterday.

On the way home, and especially today, i have almost no brake pedal. I really have to push hard to get the thing to stop.

I figured i boiled my brake fluid, so i did a complete flush. Its no better.

Im running DBA 4000 all round, with remsa pads. Is it possible i damaged the pads by overheating them?

Also, when stationary, if i press the brake pedal, the front right brake caliper creaks very loudly, and you can feel the pedal is a bit notchy. Rebuild the calipers?

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419958-braking-problems-after-the-track/
Share on other sites
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Does the pedal go to the floor,OR does the pedal feel almost normal, and lack stopping power?

I think it's he second one, and you have overheated the pads. It's can make the material all brittle, and crumble. Take your pads out, and have a look at them. You'll need higher temp pads for the track in the future.

Spence_R32 Enthusiast

Spence_R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I took them out, and your right. They seem very brittle and the surface is crumling.

Will the pad be like that all the way though? So point just taking a bit off the surface?

I am also concerned about the creacking from the caliper and the harsh pedal feel.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Toss them out mate, and get a new set on there. They will be heated all the way through.

The creak will most likely be the pad grating on the rotor, because it has no give left in it, and it just wants to judder.

Can I suggest getting a nice street pad like a QFM HPX, and then when going to track days switch to a more track orientated pad. That will keep the pedal happy :)

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Yes it will.

Best thing you can do it go through the bedding in process each time you change pads. Other than that, buy 2 sets of rotors, which for the occasional track day, is a bit overkill.

I think Remsas are rated up around 600 degrees or something, so you are pretty hard on the brakes.

Maybe look into upgrades for the future. If your running the stock GTS-t equipment, consider the budget upgrade to 324mm discs (brembo GTR) with the GKTech caliper spacers.

Also check you haven't melted your rubber piston covers in the calipers.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

I run a single set of rotors and do next to nothing about bedding pads in either way, street to track or track to street. When track pads are cold they work in "abrasive" mode, so swapping them in before you drive to the track gives them a little time to clean up the rotors of the street pad's material, so they're ready for track work. I don't bother cleaning the rotors before swapping back to street... whatev, its just not a problem.

Remsas (like QFM HPX) are a street pad, so they're not up to track work. Minimum track pad should be A1RMs (which are a crossover street/track pad).

Also, Nulon Xtreme Performance Super DOT 4 is a cheap fluid, good for 280 deg C. If you need something higher temp than that it will probably be double the price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
    • Duncan
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...