Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at putting an aftermarket rear diff into my car and throwing the standard "A-LSD" in the bin. From what I can gather, I need all the Non V spec gear to make this work but what EXACTLY do I need? Does anyone have a part listing so I can go and get it?

I assume all aftermarket diffs require the same thing wheather it be a Nismo, Tomei, Quiafe.

yeah it ends up being quite an expensive exercise..

you need the non V-spec diff housing and shafts,

then obviously your aftermarket centre of choice.. I went the Nismo GT-Pro 1.5, not as street friendly as the A-LSD, but you know its locked when you need it.

nothing else special required..

Thanks Tricstar. That's exactly the info I need. How do you find the Nismo? I was looking at putting a Quaife in mine which have only just been released. I have one in the front and love it to bits.

Did you get your non v spec stuff second hand? If so, what sort of coin did it set you back?

Michael: Were you still interested in a Quaife rear?

Thanks Tricstar. That's exactly the info I need. How do you find the Nismo? I was looking at putting a Quaife in mine which have only just been released. I have one in the front and love it to bits.

Did you get your non v spec stuff second hand? If so, what sort of coin did it set you back?

Michael: Were you still interested in a Quaife rear?

Yes, have it sorted. Send me an email if you want to discuss.

Bare in mind I'm in Perth, so everything is more $$

Got the diff and shafts from a Jap importer/wrecker for $850 o-:

nismo GT-Pro $1400

diff set-up etc $450

replace boots on shafts $150

also did wheel bearings $800

and did the install myself $0

like ever job, theres always things you don't think of..

I do find the GT-Pro quite aggressive for the street, skips and clunks when cornering slowly. If the Quaife rears are like their fronts, I think it could be a good option, I know a couple of guys over here using quaife fronts and they seem pretty good the way they operate.

Yeah fair enough

I got a mate to price up shafts and housing from his mate in Japan. Came to just under $1000, which seems pretty good considering what you paid.

Yeah, I'm very impressed with my Quaife front. Just plant your foot and point, it's rediculous!!! Definitely makes you realise how bad the standard setup is!

Non v-spec diffs and shaft come up in the F/S fairly regularly but go pretty quick, but generally only around the $600 mark.

yeah I got a OS Giken 2-way up front, wouldn't know it's there until your hard at it, then its point and hang the f##k on..behind a 2.8L also ;)

Isn't it funny. The V spec was the more expensive car but in the end you rip out everything that made it a V spec to begin with!

Argh... Quaife or Nismo 1.5 way. :\

If it were me, I would go Quaife for a streeter in an instant. Probably for a track car as well unless it was a very serious track car.

I put an S15 helical into my R32 and it is much much nicer than the old VLSD. You'd not know it was there except that drive out of corners is so trouble free and positive. The only hassle with them is they are effectively open with one wheel in the air. This is only a problem on the occasional driveway entry and so on, and also on a track where you may have stiff enough suspension to cock a wheel, or if you abuse the kerbs.

Ahhh... now I know what you wanted to call me about :merli: (below might answer it, but call me anyway lover :wub:)

As Richard said above.
Although you can use the V-Spec shafts - it's the joiner/coupler thing (I dunno the technical name) that is actually different length so if you can find JUST the diff it can work out a few hundred cheaper, but most people won't sell without so its a moot point.

On the lowest lock setting for the Nismo, as recommended by RP, mine would clunk a little but if I wanted I could've just added some Penrite friction modifier and get rid of it. I didn't care though as it was not really a problem for me.

I loved Nismo GT Pro front/rear combo and would do it again if i purchased another GTR (right after taking off turbos), lift-off oversteer and 4WD powerslides FTW. Always locked when it needed to be so it was 100% predictable every time. It was like having a RWD and 4WD car rolled into one, hard to describe.


Only "issue" was trading 4WD hellis for 4WD powerslides. Car refused to helli with Nismo front/rear & the RP spec Tiens no matter what I tried it just hooked up, so a good "issue" to have :)

  • 1 month later...

not much really, just the line between pump and diff. and block the outlet with a bolt.

its the same pump and computer that runs the ATTESSA so all must stay.

Quaife or Nismo ?

Ah sweet!

GT PRO mate. :D

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...