Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys in in the market for an exhaust but would like to get a data base of stagea exhaust system

State your car, engine and system as below,

S2 C34 RB25DET

Stock dump>gutted cat>stock mid muffler>blitz rice maker muffler

Keen to see what others are running and discuss what performs better. Personally I think local custom is the way to go, the Jap stuff is just too expensive for what it is.

Post up your system!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420592-your-exhaust-system-post-your-setup/
Share on other sites

Can you state your desired power output also as this will have more impact on the noise and expense of any system you require.

For stock power the stock exhaust is the pick, with a decent front/dump.

Most aftermarket Jap systems cant be beaten on noise V flow.

As much power as possible is always the go isn't it? Haha not too fussed on loudness too be honest just after people's system to gather information etc what do you scotty? Another thing, stainless steel vs mild? Best sizes? Types of muffler for best flow?

Well if its auto, you will worry about loudness, as they drone about 50 times more than the manuals, and are excuriating

to stay in, if its manual, just get all 3 inch and fart cannon and thats it

C34 :

I've had dump, no meow, full jap n1 fart cannon system, no mid muffler. 3 inch .., coudn't stay in it for more than 20 minutes without wanting to kill somebody due to drone , on the upside ...sounded like angry GTR on fullnoise even if it was slow

then mid muffler..no real friggin difference, had to drive to melbourne with earplugs in, as the drone is worst at 100km, mid muffler now shits me as its lowest point of car and always scrapes on speed humps

then mid muffler and chambered muffler necked to 2 1/2(not my friggin doing)..ultra quiet(to quiet)

Atm going 38mm ex gate for full throttle noise, and check on dyno if chambered muffler kills

power with 38mm gate. If it does will fit a boost operated solenoid with flapper valve after mid muffler to open under full boost , if it doesn't kill

power, i will just remove mid muffler.

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Locally made 3" straight thru including 12" oval mid muffler and a monster rear can 18" fat (cbf going out to measure it) dead quiet and still makes plenty of power. It is quieter and better than a Jap system with no sneaky steps down in diameter inside some Jap mufflers.

As much power as possible is always the go isn't it? Haha not too fussed on loudness too be honest just after people's system to gather information etc what do you scotty? Another thing, stainless steel vs mild? Best sizes? Types of muffler for best flow?

The best size is a 5 inch sidepipe, but we need to compromise for the street. Noise for the sake of it is just asking for police attention.

I run a 3.5 inch stainless system, it is only just big enough for the power I am running atm. I use a Varex muffler to control noise when I go through an RBT etc, otherwise it is actually fairly quiet at wot when open. It does drone though. I only use stainless as mild systems rust out too quickly, especially with ethanol.

I had the Varex running a boost actuator, it didn't work well though as the exhaust was too restrictive when the valve was closed. Response was affected mainly, which you don't want on an auto. Hopefully your design works better Jet, perhaps just a spring actuated flap might be a better option?

I'm not sure if i'll need it scotty, as i would be happy with 300rwkw auto, i would have thought that this system with venting

38mm external gate would do it..we will see i guess, i'll pull it of on dyno . , otherwise i will use this

http://www.spracingonline.com/store/SP_Exhaust_Cutout_3__34___Boost_Activated_/3673

after mid muffler

cheers

darren

Intake:

Apexi power intake pod filter

Z32 AFM

Metal hard pipe turbo intake kit

Exhaust:

3” JustJap stainless steel single dump pipe system (bolted to GT3076r)

3” 100-cell cat
3” cat-back exhaust system with Magnaflow mid-muffler (straight through 'hotdog' resonator) and Kakimoto GTR Racing rear-muffler (straight through)

Magnaflow made all the difference to quieting the "drone"

Ok so I removed my last stock muffler and welded a pipe in its place now it's straight thro to the rear blitz muffler. Sounds really shot and drowny now haha best muffler for drown? Still want it loud tho

Ok so I removed my last stock muffler and welded a pipe in its place now it's straight thro to the rear blitz muffler. Sounds really shot and drowny now haha best muffler for drown? Still want it loud tho

Magnaflow mid resonator. ie Hotdog

get off ebay USA......

Ok so I removed my last stock muffler and welded a pipe in its place now it's straight thro to the rear blitz muffler. Sounds really shot and drowny now haha best muffler for drown? Still want it loud tho

I don't think you can win, the resonace drone on a C34 is bouncing of the front windscreen and rolls in from the back, and only

affects the front passengers. If you sit in the back seat, its not there, actually if you put you head a inch back from the front seats it disappears(well did on mine). but in the front it was ear bleeding, You might have a shot with it being manual though..

I had a magnaflow resonator on back of R31, it made a difference, BUT.. i think the main problem is a station wagons a big open area, whereas a sedan has a boot area and is a more enclosed spac, i woudn't expect a R34 sedan or 2 door to have same problem

good luck

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Hotdogs or resonators do sweet FA, you need a proper mid muffler.

Im sorry, but in this instance I just cant agree with this comment ^

Speaking from experience with my Stag

without hotdog = drone

with hotdog = drone (mostly) gone.

Not talking about a decrease in noise volume, rather the sound it used to make pre-hotdog within the cabin at a constant rpm @ cruise.

I wouldnt recommend it if I hadnt seen a positive result myself.......

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Magnaflow-13743-7-Dia-Round-Stainless-Steel-Univ-Muffler-3-Inlet-Outlet-18-L-/380574863837?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589c0791dd

I had two resonators installed in mine, the drone was still there, all they did was make the exhaust sound tinny and weak. The wagon is a speaker box, and you are inside it.

The only exhausts I have heard that don't resonate/drone are the Fujitsubo Legalis and Nismo for the M35, surely there is something similar around cheap you could pick up S/H?

With enough trial and error you could weld in a Helmholtz chamber, as Fujitsubo use. It is a tuned dead end muffler, which can take out certain frequencies of noise, specifically that freeway drone.

my car came from japan with the following:

3" from the turbo

3" hiflow cat

3" into split 2.5" pipes after the diff

2 x 2.5" to 4" kakimoto hyper mega N1 mufflers

all stainless and custom made by the looks of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...