Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is my pride and joy..

1999 R34 GTR V-Spec in Kr4 Silver

60,000kms

selling to fund an investment property.

car currently has 358awkw tuned at Morpowa on 98 octane.

modifications include:

Trust T517z turbos (10cm)

Tomei 260/260 Camshafts and cam gears

Power enterprise 700cc injectors

Jasma full twin system exhaust

Nismo AFM's

Nissan N1 spec water pump

post-80026-0-70512000-1361775827_thumb.jpg post-80026-0-97261500-1361775879_thumb.jpg post-80026-0-42402600-1361775895_thumb.jpg

post-80026-0-88486000-1361775922_thumb.jpg post-80026-0-79179300-1361775962_thumb.jpg post-80026-0-05820500-1361785976_thumb.jpg

post-80026-0-80493600-1361787422_thumb.jpg post-80026-0-79298100-1361787461_thumb.jpg post-80026-0-19263500-1361787500_thumb.jpg

post-80026-0-39779600-1361787529_thumb.jpg

Trust oil cooler kit

Blitz 600hp front mount intercooler

twin thermo fans with triple core radiator

standard air box with K&N filter

Splitfire coilpacks

ported turbo manifolds

bosch fuel pump

trust oil catch can

TEIN coilovers

Cusco camber arms

Alcon 365 6 pot front brakes

Alcon 335 4 pot rear brakes

project Mu pads & titanium wheel nuts

Volk TE37 18X10+12 matte black wheels

toyo 265/35 T1r tyres

Nismo clear indicators

factory uv cut privacy glass and dark tint on windows

NISMO 320kph dash reading 27,000kms also have original dash reading 32,000kms

kenwood cd player and speakers

blitz dual sbc

apexi hand held power fc

blitz turbo timer

Ogura twin plate clutch

and much more...

over $36,000 in receipts for work done recently

just spent $700 on full service at Manta Automotive

serviced every 5000kms have all history on car with receipts.

car is meticulously cared for and rarely used

non smoker - washed weekly

premium plates 'XX 034K'

have lots of standard parts which go with the car

please call me on 0411 768 931 for more details

Thanks Sam

PRICE $54,999

Edited by APE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420597-r34-gtr-vspec/
Share on other sites

No idea sorry mate I did not remove it, is it important?

Car has no accident damage or evidence of repair and has matching numbers etc. I have a fast screenshot but its on my work computer will post later this week.

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420597-r34-gtr-vspec/#findComment-6772102
Share on other sites

I'll give this a free bump purely because it's everything I'd be looking for in a GT-R.

Unfortunately, the timing is not quite right for me at this point, and believe me, I ran the numbers more than once!

Good luck with the sale.

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420597-r34-gtr-vspec/#findComment-6802549
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...